28日到北京。机场大巴改15分钟一趟了，很方便，而且安全。到西单打个出租，十一元到住处。
Arrived in Beijing on Oct. 28th. Every 15 minutes there was a bus to downtown, convenient and safe. Called a taxi after that and got to my place with 11 yuan (1 dollar= 8 yuan).
有点不习惯看见到处都是同样的面孔了。更不喜欢的是北京街头充满了老谋深算的脸，让你觉得人生无处没有陷阱与算计， 无处没有生活的挣扎。
Not accustomed now to seeing faces of one type (Asian only). Moreover, I saw sophisticated faces everywhere on the streets, which made me feel there traps were laid out everywhere in life, where struggles abound.
外地人，比加州的墨西哥人还多。骑车在街上，看见一个明显是打工妹的女孩骑着车熟练地穿越大街小巷，不仅感叹外地人在北京的如鱼得水。这些人中，不知道会出几个嘉莉妹妹。
Aliens to Beijing were more here than Mexicans in California. Saw a girl who was definited from another province riding a bike skillfully crusing the streets of Beijing. I marvelled at their skills of adapting to Beijing. I wondered how many Sister Carries there would be among them.
现在，有的北京人找对象接触的都是外地人，可见外地人的存在多么厉害。
Now some Beijing natives, when looking for a date, found themselves talking with aliens, which underscores the existence of them.
Of course, they contributed a lot to the development of Beijing, just like Mexicans contributed a lot to the economy of the U.S.
到老同学单位分到南三环外的公寓。小区内杂草丛生，因为居民不肯缴纳物业费。街上则主要是经营建材的小商店，而且多是外地人所开。文化活动场所几乎没有。这是北京扩建中的一大弊病，不是社区领先，而是住房领先。
Visted a unit-assigned apartment of a high school classmate. Located to the south of the #rd south ring, its neighborhood features wild grass due to lack of funds from residents for maintainance. In the street there are mainly stores selling construction materials and the owners are mainly from other provinces. There is not a single place for cultural activities. This is a huge problem in the urban sprawling of Beijing. There is no neighborhood community, only residential buildings.
两年前所没有见到的一个现象是喷在墙上的"办证"手机号和用粘贴纸贴在地面上的这种号码，整个一个graffiti, 擦都来不及。
Something new, something I did not see two years before, was the graffiti everywhere of cell phone numbers, with "I do your certificates" marked beside. The numbers are also printed on sticky labels which were then posted on walls, overpasses and pavements.
30日晚乘直达快车离开北京，一路不停，次日早到达武汉。坐的是新式火车，通车卧铺，而且是办开放式的小包间。只是放行李的空间小了。
On the 30th I took a direct train to Wuhan. New train, all sleeping berths, non-stop, semi-open rooms,. Nice but less space for luggage.
31日到武汉，看见建设大道的高楼大厦。这里将是武汉的纽约。总的印象武汉街上没有那么多老谋深算的脸。晚上走在中山大道上，经过几个画廊，仿佛是在Carmel。到底是租界，还是有点洋味。
Arrived in Wuhan on the 31st. High rises were rising along Construction Road. This road will be Wuhan;s New York in the future. There seemed to be less sophisticated faces in Wuhan. I passed several galleries on the Sun Yat-sen Road in the evening, feeling like I were in Carmel. After all it was in the ex-foreign quarters and the streets bespoke western style.
前进四路上兜售黄碟的女人们不见了， 跑到另外一条街去了。好像少了很多。
Women selling porn disc on Qianjin 4th Road were no longer there. They moved to another street and their numbers dwindled.
但是在三阳路口解放大道上总是有几家神秘小店，没有招牌，分两间，外间坐着几个年轻女人。见到门口有男人经过而且往里看便招呼，说是30元休闲。这里一定有鬼名堂，奇怪为什么能生存那么多年。真正的休闲店都是挂牌子的。
But there were many "mysterious stores" with no signs and pink colored lights. In the sitting room sat several young sexy girls. Seeing a man paying attention to them, they would ask him to come in, quoting 30 yuan for "relaxing". Odd that such stores can operate safely for years in Wuhan. Did not see they had much business. Real leisure stores all have signs, 20 to 30 yuan for "washing feet and hair". That was for relaxing only. No sex involved. But the mysterious stores? No se.
上了一下网。www.newslink.org 里面的英文媒体都能打开。geocities.com, 美国之音和BBC的中文网站打不开。Taiwan Yahoo 打不开。
I could open English media sites with no problem, but geocities.com, VOA and BBC, as well as Yahoo's Taiwan version, could not be accessed.
武汉近日烟雨朦胧。 夜间有时大雨滂沱。白天迷雾漫漫，能见度很低，看不见江对岸。
Foggy and rainy in Wuhan. It rained hard during nights. Very foggy during daytime with low visibility. Could not see the other side of the Yangtze River.
去了黄鹤楼，归元寺，东湖，对东湖印象犹为不佳，不值30元门票。东湖是30元看门口，15元渡船， 到磨山进去另要40元。黄鹤楼50元。茶楼有编钟古乐表演，可看，但是要买茶，最低10元一杯。但是最好不要买那里的表演VCD。
Visited Yellow Crane Tower, Guiyuan Temple and East lake. No good impression of East Lake. Too expensive. 30 yuan for the north bank area, 15 yuan for ferry, 40 yuan for Botanical Garden. In a teahouse there was ancient bell music and dance show, free with purchasing of tea, 10 yuan minimum. The performance was professional but their VCD is not worth the money.
不过去东湖的那天，武汉市笼罩在水汽之中。湖上一片朦胧，倒有些诗意。湖上有人划木船，是文友泛舟之理想途径，或者用来搞婚外恋也不错。
It was on a foggy day I went to the East Lake and the foy gave some poetic flavor to the lake scene. There were row boats on the lake. It would be nice to sit in one with a penpal or lover.
武汉公共汽车改观不少。大都是无人售票车。车头的后视镜像昆虫的两个须子，所以我叫它虫虫车。车里很干净。 乘客买票也很自觉。车站集中数路车，写清站名及票价。交通这方面，是这两年我感觉武汉改善最大的。
Much change with buses, pretty and clean. The rear mirrors are like the tentacles of insects, so I call them insect buses. No ticket seller on bus. Passengers drop their fares into a box. Bus stops several many routes with stop signs indicating the names of stops and the amount of fares. Public transis is the area where I have seen the most changes.
在家里看《又见棕榈，又见棕榈》。这是没出国以前买的。过去读是读别人的故事，现在读是读自己的故事。现在如果我给中学生讲这个小说，一定是有丰富的生活体验做后盾。特别欣赏小说中的议论。这本小说给了我一些感情触动，使我对自己目前的处境感觉更为细腻，因而也产生相当的伤感。
Read Taiwan novelist Yu Lihua's See the Palm Trees Again. I bought the book many years ago before leving China and at that time I was reading a story of other people but now I felt reading the story of myself. It made me more sensitive to my current situation and brought some sad feelings to me.
在解放军通信学院医务所作活动假牙。这条街上三处牙医院。 有一处报价比通校的贵三十元。 想了想还是用通校的，因为对那个女牙医印象很好。人挺漂亮，开朗热情，认真负责，给我的压力较小。另外我一直迷信军队的医院。
晚上上街，在吉庆街看到一家甜食店，进去要了一两烧麦，一碗糊子酒，一杯红枣白木耳。烧麦皮薄馅好。近来武汉流行农家菜。 听说池莉专门写过吉庆街，还没有读过。
在家里感觉很好，似乎是在补偿生活中缺乏的东西：与家人相处。那天翻开家里的相册，明显地感觉到我是这个家游离在外的一份子，很多场合我都不在。
Felt nice at home to experience what is lacking in my life in the U.S. Browsing the family album, I felt I had been left out for many family occasions.
现在，生活中的一些琐事，对我来说都有特殊意义。这也是读《又见棕榈》的结果。早上起来去买油条，烧卖，妹妹替我洗衣服，骑车上街逛夜晚的繁华街道，到街角的洗衣店去拿活，都让我难免不把国内生活的方便与丰富和在美国的孤寂生活作比较。
Now tiny little things in life seemed more significant to me. It was also the result from reading that novel. Going out to buy breakfast in the morning, my sister washing my clothes, bicycling in the busy streets in the evening, getting laundry from the street corner laundry store, all reminded me of the solitary life in the U.S. as compared with the convenience and richness of life here in China.
Yet I could not rid my mind of some people back in Monterey.
武汉图书馆的服务大方向不对，把以前的阅览室改成外借处， 也就是要办借书证才能进。现在的阅览室书很少，不过如果书库里有，可以让服务员拿出来，就是多了一道手续。去调出王大有的几本书了解一下他的"殷人东渡"理论，发觉不是随便就容易批驳的。回去建议MIIS 买他的书。
每次回来不敢买书，一是贵，二是怕收不住手。上次买了一本名人说禅的，这次买一本谈张爱玲的，是一个留日的博士论文，用认同理论分析张爱玲。
另外在家里读《苏曼殊全集》，很想带走，但是有五本。 也许网上有。
没完没了的雨。晚饭后撑起一把伞到街上散步，体验清凉中的悠闲。拐进饭馆调查一下菜单的价位，到音碟店和书店看那些五光十色文化产品。现在只要肯花钱，精神食粮大大的。真想把那些老电影都买走，但是太多了，买少了总有不买的遗憾，索性什么都不买。
Incessant rain. Taking a walk after dinner under an umbrella I savored the leisurely coolness. Went into a restaurant to investigate the menu. Browsing the colorful products in a CD store and bookstore. Nowadays, with money, you can buy any kind of "spiritual food". So many classic movies. I wanted to buy some, but there would be the regret of not buying others, so I did not buy any.
出了不少教舞蹈的碟子，汉族的，少数民族的，印度的，拉丁的，就是没有墨西哥的。我的录像如果制成碟子，那可是独一份儿呢。
Many VCDs of teaching folk dances, Indian dances, latin dances, but non Mexican. My recordings of Mexican ballet folklorico would be unique if made into a VCD.
雨中的解放公园路流光溢彩。覆盖马路的枝叶相交通的大树，马路上的五颜六色的汽车，下了晚自习的学生们，灯火通明的小店，餐馆，是那种小城风格的繁华。
Jiefang Park Road in the rain was shiny with colors and lights. Trees arching over the street, colorful buses and cars, pupils off from evening classes, well lit stores and restaurants, the prosperity of a small town.
周末，汇通路旧货市场人山人海，极小的空间里挤着各种摊子。不同于北京潘家园的是，这里卖的古玩很少，主要是各种生活用品，衣服，鞋子，电器，春药，光碟，包括色情光碟。奇怪的是，对色情光碟感兴趣的有很多年过五、六十岁的老人。看见一个六十多岁的男人拿着以前买的碟来换，说不好看， 另换一个。看样子是老主顾了。老人买碟，大概是重温旧梦吧。买碟的都是妇女，有的是年轻女孩，热情地给他推荐别的。摆摊的摊主都很会做生意，算得很细。比如一条新的自行车链子锁八块。 看见一个人卖旧的， 喊价六块。我说人家全新的才八块。他说他的链子比较长一点。看到别的人买链子的时候，讨价还价的时候，摊主常常说，这链子都有多少斤铁了，不能再便宜了。
卖光碟的一个小贩在电视里播放着关于林彪的纪录片，其中有大量文革中的资料。这是官方认可的纪录片，对林彪的文革期间的评价是持批评态度的。播放的时候，很多人围着看，其中有五十多岁的人，一定是在回忆那个动荡岁月。
去看了一个亲戚，跟我同龄，已经谢顶。最怕看的就是这个，因为折射出自己。去的路上，是弟弟弄了一辆车。因为要走的一座汉水桥封了， 不得不绕弯。晚上沿着沿河大道开了好久。我的感觉是惊心动魄。路上照明不足，车辆很多， 常常骑着分道线开，挤来挤去。弟弟常常用反方向车道超车，而前面马上就有汽车开过来了。在闹市区，行人穿越马路很随便， 在对方车辆的灯光里，他们很不容易被看到。我当行人的时候也常常这样过马路，自以为潇洒。 现在坐到司机室里， 才体会得到司机的苦衷。
沿河大道那一段，对我来说是陌生的。各种老旧的卡车带着尘土在老旧的街道上急驰而过，让我想到如果在中国出去旅游，经常看到的就是这种没有浪漫情调的街景， 而在闹市区，等红酒绿，车流滚滚，也让我感到无助和渺小，不仅第一次怀念起加州小城的简单。
家里很少开电视。 偶尔开一回，看了张国立演的乾隆皇帝的电视剧， 是查办河间县那一段， 自然联想到现在的反贪。有人说国内盛行清宫戏是奴才意识的表现。我看也不尽然，得看写的是什么。有的就是借古人之口说当今之事。又随便看看别的台，发现11月13日晚上中央三台的那个什么"音画时尚"节目，简直就是一群男女老少在台上犯傻。主唱的是个经常演小品的女的。当老爸的也面熟，但是在台上脸部表情整个一个老年痴呆。那些陪衬，根本就是在犯成年人幼稚病：都满面沧桑了，还一边听唱一边摇身子摆脑袋。多少年不见的幼儿表演了。
国内韩剧之风极盛。我看也好，让大陆革命化的女人们看看韩国女人是怎么做女人的。
- Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/08/2005
在解放军通信学院医务所做活动假牙。这条街上三处牙医院。 有一处报价比通校的便宜三十元。 想了想还是用通校的，因为对那个女牙医印象很好。人挺漂亮，开朗热情，认真负责，给我的压力较小。另外我一直迷信军队的医院。
三十元做假牙，真是天下的奇价。美国这边要五六千吧？ - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/08/2005
看错了，是那个医院的报价比通校的便宜30元。通校390， 那个医院360，金属托，三颗牙。
还是比美国便宜。在通校洗牙40元。那天都到了下班时间了，来了一位老者，要洗牙。 他抽烟，牙都黑了， 得用一个小时，可是医生还是给他做。 我住在那条街上，过了一个多小时经过那里，看见她终于干完了活儿，正准备离去。当时很感动， 觉得这个医生很敬业。 - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/08/2005
Why don't you ask her out for a Mexico dancing?
fanghuzhai wrote:
看错了，是那个医院的报价比通校的便宜30元。通校390， 那个医院360，金属托，三颗牙。
还是比美国便宜。在通校洗牙40元。那天都到了下班时间了，来了一位老者，要洗牙。 他抽烟，牙都黑了， 得用一个小时，可是医生还是给他做。 我住在那条街上，过了一个多小时经过那里，看见她终于干完了活儿，正准备离去。当时很感动， 觉得这个医生很敬业。 - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/09/2005
她结婚了，不过她爱上网。我要把玛雅咖啡网址给她。 - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/09/2005
我在北美的中国城也常常有这种强烈感觉，一种置身于丛林的感觉。其它不少人也
一样，向两个外表清纯的小姑娘问路，吓得她们连声说不知道，看我的眼光象看拐
骗犯。
fanghuzhai wrote:
更不喜欢的是北京街头充满了老谋深算的脸，让你觉得人生无处没有陷阱与算计， 无处没有生活的挣扎。 - posted on 11/10/2005
空心树
manat
有棵大树，年深月久了，小树林中数它最粗。一个人用力展开臂怎么也抱不拢。路人走过它身边都不禁赞许！
有人总喜欢拿这棵树来想想着，做成什么好呢？主要是因为它的粗。他站想砍了这棵树，拿来打点家具或做个风车的农具，更好地作用于地里。
等到把树砍倒了他才发现，原来这棵树其实是一棵空心大树，虽然很粗，但是结实的树皮下面什么也没有；剥去树皮，内里却是空荡荡的，无依可靠的树杆是凭什么立起来的，这个人想了半天也没懂。但是树叶照样繁茂，而树叶依旧碧绿。
空心大树能做什么用途呢？因为它没有长心。无心怎能成材？可是，叶子还是煤年都绿，它想念着根。
乙酉年于听雨斋
选自 哲理随笔集《枯荷听禅》 - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/10/2005
- Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/15/2005
好熟悉的街道! 通院就是那个解放公园路, 两旁高大的法国梧桐遮天蔽日, 我心目中武汉最最美丽的一条街道... - Re: 2005鍥炲浗鐐规淮posted on 11/15/2005
哪里都是家。我有时头次涉足美国的某个小镇也会有恍若相识的亲切之感，甚至一些感伤。至于武汉这个我似乎该当作故乡的地方，我03年回国，完全变得我认不出来了，陌生之极，毫无感觉。
我想我是没有故乡的。
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