- 24日中午离开赛维亚,坐火车来马德里,两个半小时就到了。怪不得票那样贵原来是AV火车。临走前一晚,la tuna在楼下唱了一晚的情歌。然后就是街角酒吧里几个年轻人在弹吉他唱深歌。凌晨5点多才合眼睡一会儿。
安塔路西亚好像就没有几个不会弹琴跳舞的姑娘小伙儿,如果说赛维亚是夜夜笙萧处处歌舞真是一点儿都不过份。这里不仅有狂野的flamenco,也有古典音乐,jazz,blues,跳芭蕾的,演小丑的,到处都是。
到马德里给一个画家朋友打电话,他邀请我去当地的一个留学生聚会吃圣诞餐。刘大姐很是热心当地社团活动。
在一家叫做cat的hostal住下来。圣诞夜,到处都是热情,这里的年轻人买了好多啤酒香槟点心小吃,还有一个从阿根廷来的魔术师马里奥那给大家变魔术开心。鬼灵精怪的马里奥那!一个姑娘喝醉了,在洗手间大吐特吐。
从法国来的一对中国青年跟我蛮谈得来,他们在法国学设计。那个姑娘插图画得非常好,临走前,给我画了两张可爱的漫画。很单纯可爱的年轻人。
几天来晚上基本没睡,太多的烟酒,喉咙鼻子都在抗议不公正待遇,它们罢工两天,搞得我鼻塞咽痛,喷嚏不断,跟纽约地铁工人联合起来了,今天才平息了它们的愤怒。
前天到了toledo.....
- posted on 12/29/2005
摄影师朋友荷塞告诉我说,在他眼里Toledo与Granada是西班牙两个最美丽的城市。偏偏我来到这两个城市的时候都是烟雨朦朦、阴冷彻骨的天气。两个城都建在山上,古城周围是河流玉带环绕,山水贵气宝气灵气,古人的眼睛都不错的,选择的都城都是一流的山水。
从法国来的那对青年人从导游书上看到一家在城堡里的青年旅店,告诉我一定要去住住看。我这两天感冒着,晕头晕脑,胸闷气喘,到了陀雷多,过了Alcántara桥爬上山坡,看见一个气派的城堡。太气派了,简直不敢相信这就是青年旅舍。背着大背包一直爬到山顶,看见一个医院的指路牌。然后就是什么什么的infantry。一会儿是医院,怎么一会儿又变成了步兵营?山坡上有一个戒备森严的大门,门卫再三解释那个城堡就是青年旅店了。满腹狐疑又走下山来,按了半天门铃无人应答。耐心再等,有人用西语来问话,用英文答他。开门上台阶,推门进去,果然是个青年旅店。把一个13世纪的城堡拿来当青年旅店,西班牙的古迹多得都没处用了。问了价钱,居然才12个欧元!加上早餐旅店卡等等也才17欧元。拿了钥匙开门,居然干净清爽得不亚于任何一家三星酒店。
- Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 12/29/2005
雨雾里的陀雷多。
- Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 12/29/2005
在受孕(?)修道院(converto d la conception)前拍到这样有趣的石碑:
- posted on 12/29/2005
根本没有计划来Toboso。大概是在陀雷多车站,我那本Lodging in Spain's Monasteries的书丢了。原本考虑在最后一站Barcelona附近找个隐修院住几天的。现在只记得在陀雷多省有个叫toboso的地方,是堂吉科德骑士梦中女神出生的地方,那里好像有个修道院。去问information,那里的人根本不会讲英文。只告诉我去toboso的车明天几点钟开。我甚至都不能肯定那里有没有提供住宿的修道院,但我只觉得今天好像必须到那里去。
去了再说吧。坐上下午两点半从陀雷多城去Toboso的公车。车上只有三五个乘客,都是乡村里的大爷大妈,一个是几乎没牙的老太,另一个是瞎了一只眼的老头子。乘客陆续下车了,最后一站只有我一个人,我不停地咳嗽,下腹也开始隐隐剧痛,头晕眼花(我近来视力下降得非常快,原因不明)。汽车司机不停地问我问题,我也不太明白他到底问什么,只是用所有学过的单词来跟他练习对话,完全牛头不对马嘴!比如他大概问我是不是得的gripe(flu),我答他要住在一个convert里,问他知道不知道有个地方我可以住,然后他就说了一长串不懂的话,我们这样自说自话讲了一路。我用尽了知道的词汇,然后就用表演来表达我的意思,他也没办法看,一个劲儿地si……si,我也sisi半天,两人大笑,我笑得鼻涕出来了,他就递给我纸巾,两个多小时后,我们就到了这个小村子。
修道院在小村中心,正是作弥撒的时候,有个老头儿告诉我六点再来。我就在村子里转悠了一会儿…… - Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 12/30/2005
玛雅玩得够野,够开心!我85-87年在英国也是这样玩。住过罗梦湖(Loch Lomond)边的青年旅馆,就是个古堡,好象是15世纪的。Take care! Happy New Year! - Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 01/12/2006
在修道院里的故事还没写,先贴张图吧,这是给我送早餐的嬷嬷与看门的大妈:
- Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 01/12/2006
Toledo 的城门。 - Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 01/12/2006
鸟瞰Toledo. - Re: 圣诞夜在马德里posted on 01/14/2010
上次在马德里,就是遇见琳妹妹的地方。还记得吗,我们的青春与热情?14年前来,正赶上圣母受孕节,我的运气真好。但就是定酒店耗费大量精神!!这次来,根本没有计划,更不会想到正好碰上两个大节,一个是五一,一个是这里的april fair。原本april fair该在4月的,笨死。没查资料,他们是按照阴历月历来算的。。我笨死,早忘了安塔路西亚数不清的节日。游客都是乌央乌央的,起码跟潮汕地区不逊色。塞维亚穆斯林人口剧增,中国游客剧增。From May 4, 2019 to May 11, 2019 - posted on 05/02/2019
For one week life in Seville revolves around this fiesta. The music, food, dancing and general joy create a very special atmosphere.
The April Fair is one of the most international and popular of Seville’s fiestas. It was created in 1847 as a cattle fair, and over time the festive atmosphere that had grown up around the occasion took over the business aspect, and it became a permanent fixture in Seville’s social calendar. For a week more than a thousand “casetas” or tents installed in the fairground area become the second home of the city’s inhabitants, a place where people come together to have fun and share experiences until the early hours of the morning.
The fiesta officially begins at midnight on Monday with the “lighting test”, the illumination of the thousands of multi-coloured light bulbs in the fairground and adorning the main gateway, which is almost 50 metres high and has a different motif every year. Once inside the gate you come to the “casetas”, and it is here where you really experience the fair. These tents belong to groups of friends and associates, and are a family space where acquaintances, relations and guests are welcomed in and plied with delicious food and wine; there is singing, good conversation and of course, "sevillanas", the local version of flamenco dancing. The lively and festive atmosphere spills over into the area outside the tents: people usually dance in the street, and the friendly personality of the Sevillian people will entice passers-by into the celebration. You should bear in mind that most of the stalls are privately owned and can be entered only by invitation from the members or their friends. There are however public tents which are open to all. The information office at the entrance to the fair will tell you which they are.
Throughout the fair, people wear typical Andalusian dress: the men wear the typical outfit of the farmworker, and the women wear flamenco or gypsy dresses. By day the fair is filled with horsewomen, riders and richly festooned carriages. This is what is known as the horse and carriage parade, in which you can take part by renting a buggy with a driver from the regular service. Next to the fairground is the Calle del Infierno (Hell’s Street), a lively recreational area with a host of attractions for children and adults, and stands selling cold drinks and snacks. Another vital component is the bullfight: every afternoon people crowd into the Plaza de la Maestranza bullring to see the day’s bullfight (tickets and passes can be bought in advance by telephone or on the Maestranza bullring’s own website). And after a week of merrymaking there is a spectacular fireworks display at midnight on Sunday to send off the April Fair for another year.
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