每次看到阿姆斯特丹的水,总是担心如果不会游泳,住在这里大概不会安全。利用工作之便,问了许多荷兰人,似乎游泳是与生俱来的本领,根本不是问题,于是我只有自我安慰,这是物种进化,自然选择。幸好我只是经常来此小住,不会游泳也不是什麽大碍。
很喜欢阿姆斯特丹运河边的房子,整整齐齐的却又是各色独具的肩并肩的挨在一起,每一幢房子从远处看就象画着规则图案的并拢的手指头,窄窄的,却又倔强地立着,还有像模像样的“帽子”立在头上。每次来这里,总是流连于运河边,一幢一幢的房子看过去,似乎总是不厌。在我看来,我喜欢阿姆斯特丹的小巷更甚于威尼斯,尽管这里到处也都是水,都是人。运河一圈一圈地引领着这个城市的建设,向外扩展去,也许是水的涟漪触发了早期城市规划者的灵感,让这个海平面以下十米的城市浮出水面。运河边的街道和房子也是这麽一圈一圈地逗人追逐。尽管令我留恋的房子可以追溯到16世纪,阿姆斯特丹看起来是年轻人的城市。在欧洲的城市里大概不会有哪儿的自行车可以与这里比美,运河边的栏杆边,火车站前的天桥上停的自行车让我想起了上个世纪的中国,停满了自行车,不是当今盛行的山地或是赛车,就是大学里我们都曾经骑着哐啷哐啷可以满世界乱跑而不担心被偷的那种最最大众的自行车。来欧洲5年,没有任何一个地方给我同样的亲切感。窄窄的街道,泾渭分明地标出自行车道,反而是汽车需要择道而行。如果住在阿姆斯特丹,拥有汽车也许是件麻烦事,不仅速度开不快,令人眼花缭乱的似乎参加环法自行车赛的种子选手们时不时地用单薄的自行车向大家伙们挑衅,而可怕的停车让人觉得天黑时如果有幸找到车位停好车,司机开了车门就会掉到水里。不过,我的担心并不影响我对阿市的好感,很想住在运河边的某一个房子里,看看运河边来来往往的行人和自行车,还有在运河边晒太阳的懒鸭子。
这是个自由的城市,自由得空气中总是飘着令人眩晕的气味。说着世界上各种语言的黑的,白的,黄的,棕的嘻皮或是雅皮们,从早到晚坐在运河边的Coffeeshop里吞云吐雾,商店的门窗上贴着某种植物的图片及其学名,我知道那决不是普通的烟草,可是许多名字我根本没听说过,更不要说区分了。每次都对自己说,对这个城市这麽留恋也许是因为闻多了大麻,上了瘾。也许是因为花,运河边的花市让每个路过的人都不忍离去,我更是一次又一次地在每个摊前留连,于是更渴望住在运河边的有一个有风景的房子里,每天送给自己一束含苞的花,或是郁金香,或是玫瑰,或是康乃馨,或是无数无数自己叫不出名字的花。每天的花不同,心情不同,生活决不会枯燥。荷兰人真是把郁金香培育到了极致,各种颜色,各种花边,各种高矮的郁金香诱惑着我,我的眼前真的是我的小院,在春天里盛开着无数的郁金香,于是向老板要了个大袋子,一只一只地选择洋葱头一样的种子,回去把它们种在我的院子里,明年春天就可以天天有惊喜了。
夜幕降临的时候,商家纷纷关了门,休息去了,而运河边的灯却亮了,只是它们亮得摇曳,亮得暧昧。小巷边,运河边,熙熙攘攘的,世界各个角落的男人都汇聚在这狭小的空间,或猎奇,或各取所需。而玻璃窗后搔首弄姿身着三点的来自世界各地的女人们开始了这个世界最古老的生意。
- posted on 03/08/2006
I was in a tour group when I visited Amsterdam. Of course everybody was curious about the red light district, but the tour company wouldn’t risk ruining its reputation by bringing us there. So the tour guide (an attractive British redhead) announced that those who are interested in checking out “downtown” can go with her after dinner.
We took a local bus to get there. Once we were in the Square we gathered around the tour guide like a bunch of frightened baby birds clinging onto the mother bird. She pointed us to the direction of the district, and said very diplomatically that she couldn’t recommend us to go there but it would be something interesting to see. When all things were said and nothing more to add, this group of grown adults still stood there in silence with the dumbest look on their faces. Nobody dared to make the first move. Eventually, an old Russian guy broke the ice with his sternest voice: “My daughter told me that when you travel in another country, you should explore their culture”. (I think it is hilarious that he had to use his daughter as excuse!) A middle-aged schoolteacher from Tennessee nervously agreed: “It is the culture! It is the culture!” She had this expression on her face as if she is about to be pushed over the bridge! I thought the whole thing was getting ridiculous so I slipped into the sex museum with some girls.
- Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/08/2006
苏珊写得蛮有趣,苏珊写的英文比转的读得有味。
只是这些美国佬被写得太呆头鸡了,让北欧人见了笑话:-)
纽约也有一个性博物馆,新建的,就在我公司门口,我是日日经过而
不入,头都不窥一窥。
还有同性恋大游行,一点都不好看。。。
我也是一只呆头鸡! - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/08/2006
You braveheart, ventured all the way across the ocean yet only winded up in a museum? Those phony rusty and dusty collectibles would spark no spirit, and hardly find any match to the rich street culture of Amsterdam.
I suggest you ask the tour guide for refund, or bargain a make-up tour for free ;).
Susan wrote:
so I slipped into the sex museum with some girls.
- Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/08/2006
I haven't told you the whole story yet, of course I checked out the streets.... :)
Reader2 wrote:
You braveheart, ventured all the way across the ocean yet only winded up in a museum? Those phony rusty and dusty collectibles would spark no spirit, and hardly find any match to the rich street culture of Amsterdam. - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/08/2006
So should we all hold breath for the to-be-continued? Please don't even try to fool around with dirty tricks like “this chapter is omitted 2000 words”......we're all grown-ups now.
Susan wrote:
I haven't told you the whole story yet, of course I checked out the streets.... :) - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/09/2006
You what?! How could you! I've always wanted to go there. God I wish I lived in NYC!
xw wrote:
纽约也有一个性博物馆,新建的,就在我公司门口,我是日日经过而
不入,头都不窥一窥。 - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/09/2006
Nope, I guess I will just stop here. Leave it to you to tell the story...
Reader2 wrote:
So should we all hold breath for the to-be-continued? Please don't even try to fool around with dirty tricks like “this chapter is omitted 2000 words”......we're all grown-ups now. - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/09/2006
Come on, is this so called taboo "What Happens on Road Stays on Road"? Swear up and down I wasn't the lucky one who bumped into your street sampling of the Amsterdam culture, and now you're asking me to fake up a story instead? With whom?
Susan wrote:
Nope, I guess I will just stop here. Leave it to you to tell the story... - Re: 在阿姆斯特丹的幻想posted on 03/09/2006
Please -- don't take it to heart, because I'm sure you're far able to handle the friendly teasing.
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