大浪呼啸着涌起来,直立起来,似乎一个巨人带着怨气,扑向我们的小船。船上三分之一穿着雨裤自称专业渔民大胖子被打倒,然后躺在那里喘气,无奈地承受着倾盆大雨般的海水,如同涸辙之鱼,无法相濡以沫,只能眨眨右眼,互抱自嘲的微笑。 我虽然因块头小且抓住栏杆没有被打倒,但下半身全部湿透,运动鞋内灌满了水,开始膨胀。太阳仍未升起来,冷风依旧呼叫着,并继续搅动着漆黑的海水,又一轮大浪打来,船倾斜到几乎翻覆,船上少数几个女渔民尖叫起来,让船老大呼叫coast guard,掌舵的船老大嘿嘿一笑:“you ain’t see the real rough water yet”.
在冬天出海钓鱼,本来并不是我的计划之内。但一来好久没有出海,性情郁闷,手痒难耐;另外一个原因是纽约一家老朋友驱车前来探望我们,在海港那里租下有厨房的旅馆,专等我的鱼下锅,包括他们的小女孩在内,均望穿秋水等待吃我钓的鲜鱼。
这是一条能载三四十人的船,现在船上只有二十多人。我们凌晨五点出发,要开四个小时到外海钓鱼。一路上刚开始大家还有说有笑,讲自己钓大鱼的经历,甚至拿出照片或者证书证明自己所言不虚,同时还互相请素不相识的人喝啤酒。只有在这样的小船上,才能让人感觉到“在同一条船”的涵义。人们说话肆无忌惮,互相调侃甚至动手扳腕子,以确定是否真能钓动大鱼, 吃喝不分彼此,亲昵如兄弟,。
但一会儿就进入海浪烛天的海域了,大家开始不那么自如了。一个大胡子老者带着自己三个儿子及其三个儿媳,还有一个孙子来钓鱼,是他新年请客。不过,船行不久,一个儿媳就晕船,拿着睡袋船舱中去睡觉,而那孙子则搂住一个垃圾篓,呕吐不停。我很少晕船,但今天也几乎晕了,带来的啤酒茶蛋五香牛肉干一口也不敢吃,至于看书,更是梦想。而且船舱中空气浑浊,感觉要吐,只好到甲板上透气,忍受不停打来的大浪。
如月亮般的太阳升起来了,但浓云依旧没有散去,并不时有雨水落下。在大浪中,有十数个海鸥跟着我们的船鸣叫着,盘旋着。这海鸥的定向、平衡能力很强,能逆风停在空中不动,或者突然转向,扎入水中捕鱼,或者在两个大浪间隔中浮在水面上静止,其翅膀舞动和静止时脸上的优雅神情,真是妙不可言。任何一个人类设计的飞行器,可能有多种功能,但恐怕都难以达到这种优雅境界。
我们终于到了可以钓鱼的地方了,这时船上的气氛竟然肃穆起来,没有说笑,没有调侃,甚至没有咳嗽声,只听得鱼线嗖嗖入海的声音。那海很深,放很久的线铅坠才落地。我刚感到铅坠落地,就觉得猛地一挣,上鱼了!我立即斜向拉一下然后向上收线,真是很沉重,我本来打电脑受伤的手几乎摇不动。喘口气再摇,终于摇上来了,鱼并没有想象那么大,是一磅多重的两条seabass。迅速将鱼卸去,放入cooler中,再下钩,这下子觉得鱼杆猛烈晃动,上大鱼了!我猛力摇,还是摇不动,只好跟这条大鱼斗法,松线,收线,终于那鱼疲惫了,提上来到水面,原来是一条三十多磅的鲨鱼。船上maid拿来网,将鲨鱼弄到甲板上,那鲨鱼真是漂亮,可不知道为什么,专业渔民们都将这种鲨鱼叫dog fish。我将鲨鱼放回海中,她摇曳尾巴缓缓离去,一会儿就没了踪影。
在我同鲨鱼周旋的时候,旁边一个老渔民竟然钓上两条龙丽(flounder), 均有十多磅重。出海前,每个人都出两元作为钓到最大最好鱼的奖励,看来这老渔民有希望得奖。因为钓龙丽,你的钩必需有特别的技术才能设置好。我向那老渔民请教,也换了钩,但还是没有钓到龙丽。
经过一段间歇,海浪在傍晚的时候又翻卷起来。钓上来鱼的时候,因为担心鱼杆和自己被浪卷走,只好将鱼杆夹在两腿之间,一手紧握船栏杆,一手收线。就这样不停地提鱼,渐渐感到一种在风浪中征服的快感:在颠簸中风浪的击打下,你将那沉甸甸的鱼线缓缓收回,得到的竟然是一种平静的感觉,此时的世界万籁俱寂, 只有天、海、鱼和你自己。周围的渔民,都是那么严肃,在风浪中不出声音,平静地下钩,收鱼,像进行着一场神秘而神圣的仪式。
到了快归航的时候,我钓的鱼已经超过了25条的限量(小的一两磅,大的三四磅重),但我还是停不下来,继续钓,将鱼钓上后或者放回,或者换回cooler中小的鱼。终于到结束的时候,我想照张像,从裤兜中掏出相机一控,水哗哗地从相机套中流出,我的相机就此寿终正寝。
回到旅馆,朋友葱姜蒜料酒醋具备,等我指导烹制。我实在没有力气,先去洗热水澡,然后小憩半小时。等起来一看,他们将鱼整治得甚有模样:清蒸鱼一大盘,红烧鱼段一盘,鱼片炒豌豆一盘,还有大量鱼头鱼尾加上鲜蘑菇和黄瓜,煮成奶白色的鱼汤。鱼新鲜怎么烧都好吃,烹饪技术此时已经不重要。就着朋友那上好的法国白葡萄酒 Chardonnay,吃着各种风格的不同的鱼,颇为惬意。
吃过晚饭兴致未尽,着不喝酒朋友妻开上他们的van,沿着沙滩看灯。那圣诞灯火有灰姑娘小矮人故事演绎,有渔船和海盗,栩栩如生,置身此间,恍入童话仙境。在疲累中处于半醉半醒之间,仍感觉那van的晃动如同船的颠簸和颠簸中的平静,就这样在不停的颠簸中,穿过了那圣诞灯火的丛林和沙滩,穿过了午夜,穿过了2007年。
2008-1-2
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/02/2008
废名好快意。我新年没到海上,陆地上就够颠簸了。
好好休息好好睡,脑子目前还休克中。
废名今年常来咖啡贴贴。
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/02/2008
新年好xw,现在忙碌,等过段时间一定争取多来咖啡。 - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/03/2008
好久没看废名文字了,还惦记着呢。果然是诗人才情,翻滚的大海在眼前再现。
开始我还想别钓到鲨鱼,还真就钓到了,好在不是大白鲨。相机也可惜了。:)
One question:why let the dog fish go back?the regulation?
I think it is not easy to get such a more than 30 pound fish.also pity of not taking a picture.
happy new year .feiming. - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/03/2008
It is not the regulation, you can keep a shark like that in this area, it is legal size. But I always feel bad to leave a shark dry and die, because they are so agreessive yet graceful, plus, I heard shark tastes not that good:)
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/03/2008
feiming wrote::))))))))))
plus, I heard shark tastes not that good:)
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
我是在31号晚上,11点多熬稀饭,熬过了12点,呵呵,新年的第一时刻喝上了稀饭,嘿嘿 - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
真不错。从来没有体验过。 - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
I don't know where you live, but if you happen to travel to the east coast, then I can take you out to the sea at least half a day, and I guarntee you to get some fish and have some fun.
spring time is good for deep sea fishing, you can catch a lot of sea trout, cheers.
守望古典 wrote:
真不错。从来没有体验过。 - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
刚到美国时候,在一些老资格的唆使下,花了48美刀,出海去钓鱼,一路上翻江倒海,当时真担心会连肠肚都吐出来,根本没心思钓鱼。 - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
feiming wrote:非常感谢!
I don't know where you live, but if you happen to travel to the east coast, then I can take you out to the sea at least half a day, and I guarntee you to get some fish and have some fun.
spring time is good for deep sea fishing, you can catch a lot of sea trout, cheers.
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
hi, take a look, not that bad:), those are rock fish
(strip bass)
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
呵呵,废名先生原来是老外,怎么中文写得比一般中国人都好?佩服。另外,阁下是其中的哪一位? - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
feiming wrote:
hi, take a look, not that bad:), those are rock fish
(strip bass)
这种尺码的肯定是食人鱼,人不能吃,所以出海的兴趣不大,除了在水上颠簸以外:)
哪一位是你啊,废大厨?右边第二好像很眼熟:))
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
老瓦 wrote:老瓦这话说的一听就是中部住太久的缘故,离海太远,连海水多咸都不大记得了。
feiming wrote:这种尺码的肯定是食人鱼,人不能吃,所以出海的兴趣不大,除了在水上颠簸以外:)
hi, take a look, not that bad:), those are rock fish
(strip bass)
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
I have a lot of things to show off, but my face is not among them:)(plus, I didn't take picture of myself on this trip, my camera is soaking wet and dead:)
WOA, if you have a chance, you can come over and give it a random shot, to eat fish or to be eaten, that shouldn't be a question:) - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
Hey Feiming, I mean to ask you this long time ago: could you “show off” some of the documentaries you’ve produced? I am really interested.
I’ve been thinking: everyone finds his own way to get to “heaven” --- for Feiming it is the wild adventures, for Fengzi it is his struggle with the walrus, for Huiyuan it is her music…
- posted on 01/04/2008
Hey ,where is your Heaven Susan? I guess you must have one or two::)
The documentaries have to be aired on TV first before I can show it around(copyright issues), so far, a couple of them have been aired, but I am not very happy with them. When the one I am proud of is ready, will show it to you.
Susan wrote:
Hey Feiming, I mean to ask you this long time ago: could you “show off” some of the documentaries you’ve produced? I am really interested.
I’ve been thinking: everyone finds his own way to get to “heaven” --- for Feiming it is the wild adventures, for Fengzi it is his struggle with the walrus, for Huiyuan it is her music…
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
不知废名是否有钓到小鲨鱼,几年前和朋友大冬天去海边钓鱼,小鲨鱼成群结队,很容易钓。
回家以后烧上开水,鲨鱼皮轻轻一烫就掉,切成小段辣椒一炒,嫩嫩的象吃黄鳝。
- Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
I have caught many of those(bigger though), but never keep them, I heard they taste sour. Is that true? - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/04/2008
I didn't taste any sourness.
as long as you take the skin off, it tastes very good actually. keep in mind, small shark. ;)
feiming wrote:
I have caught many of those(bigger though), but never keep them, I heard they taste sour. Is that true? - Re: 在海上颠簸的新年posted on 01/07/2008
this might be the last time I beat a dead horse, but in response to your guys, here is our dinner after fishing, cheers:)
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