凤凰花,尼日尔河--马里游记 ZT | Apr 18 2005- תhttp://exiula.blogspot.com/ exiula
(Mali)λڷɳĮԵ½ ǾĻ˹Źڵ˵Ϊ˼ʱնкȺɴ˵ ʷǼɣĵ19ĩҶΪֳأ뷨ޡ1920껮Ʒյ1958Ϊͬιյ1959ڼӶ塣1960922ĹΪﹲ
ﹲ 20壬ϵİռ35%ͼϵĸռ13%Ŭ塢ֿ塢ɣȡȫ80%ľŷ˹̣ŷ̡̻Ϊٷԣͨð (Bamako) ҪУ(Sgou)Ī(Mopti)(Djenne)ͨͼ(Tombouctou)
ɻڰƣBamakoʻʱ ڵ¶ߡ
ݵʱһӭ
ܴӰɵĺ࣬ ŷοͺһЩסŷˣοжǷˣйоǷĹٷǷ ָʾзͺͺԱĶԻҲǷ һʱ仹ûиоǵ˷ޡֱ˻һȺӿܾƵģһҵģ ˾˲㣬رΧмܲס֮ʱԤӻ˾ɱΧ ɢȥ
ϣӣӻƵ·ϣѾһƬںڰйȥʻDafinaƵ꣬Ƶģ ɫĵ͵ŷʽͥԺ ܴ ֻǴ̫
ƣλնΣ˿ڵijУȷеݣһӿĴĴ䡣г˼ҪĽͨɵ ľƽĺɫ·ںʱʻ·ϣһɫij꼾ʻijһɫǡ
˾ Antou Ǿʻһ°Ƶĺɫ·ϣȥжһҵ·ϣAntouҲһﻻǮ۸һġڳէǣһжİģ ǵٷ
ھһЩ·ʱȥ DZţ ·веˣֻôڲϵijΧϣ µǰţ ɫĻҳûһĹϵҺAntou ˵ѳӿЩЩҳȴң Ļ ˻֣óӹǰҳʻȥձƵؿǵijĺ·ҵߵıΧֻ¶һ˫۾ˡ
ڵð̵ĽͨҪϣһɫһɫ ССĽͨʿŷ̭ıСͣλѾˣ˶ŵųʣˣ֮Ҳվŵij˿ͣ һЩ ͶõܽķҲǼվŵij˿͡ɻɫijŵĴǵصǮײ˻ߡоֵë¿Ħггܿ·ʽĽͨĿˣ Щƾɳš
ĻżһЩɫѤ۵Ůˣ ͷ Ƿģ СģȻDzŲæʵŵIJӡ·Ըߴķ (flamboyant)ŻĻʱӹ
Photo 08Marco Paoluzzo
еλͬڹˡǷĽֵƧСĵij洦ɼȲҪ罻ijκεط ڲݣڲݵ¶Լҵ⣬żһôϯضȼһļС̿¯һ裬·ߵıժƬʵıҶӣ ҶҶˮһյġ˳ǵIJ裬Ƿźܶİǣһռ˱ӵģDzȥ裬ʹĹȻڻһζ࣬ûڻ ǻ˵"fort comme la mort" һأڶ裬ǽڻģǻ˵"doux comme la vie" һ죩裬ȫڻˣǵζڲζǻ˵"sucre comme l'amour" һۣ
飬ĹУǻ·ÿһˣѣİһȲ衣˵ζҪһġ˵˵飬 һ˵ļʺ Ҳȷǵʺģ ĺеġУῴڽֵʱ龰 һʶ֮ģ ˶ַڸԵǰһһʺ ͣ½Ųʡ 𣿼ĺ𣿸ĸ𣿺Ǻʱߴ̰˴õĶҪһߣѾߵĺԶҲܶԷǷõǺ֮ܵ棬 ҲӵʺŶԷְѸԵһһ㿴һ˱߱ʱпʺһѾߵĺԶˡ
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峿 DzȥƵг ȥһµصļУ˽к͵ֱӵķ仰ÿһİijУ ҪȥļУУȷʵܵϢж㲻İˡ
ڰƵĽֵϣװϾͶΧĵ˴һϢ ߡ ܻһЩǰԻ еĵΣеʲôʱ䣬͵ص˽һǵ뷨ᷢÿһ˶вĻĺġ
гǰһۺгʳƷƷװƥӻõμƷȵȣÿһյļУ ʱ̷̯λ֡ĶŮˣ Ųɫﴫͳ۵ŮͷϹIJɫĽΡеıϱӤһϣڷҪ۵Ʒ ʵ ˮҩݣֹΡ࣬ڷŵķdz롣ӵеĶ࣬ κһɻŮˣһһذһ鲼ţֱѳһС״ âģ㽶ġÿߵһ̯λǰ ʺãBonjour, Comment 04a va? ǵƷڲĶ Ҫᶨ˵
˵Ͳ䷳ʹԲġҪĶҪɱۣÿ˶̸۵ĸ֡
һֻʮкһžеɫ̯λǰɫӴĵͶһͭɫӣdzķϾץסҵ ؽ
ǧһŷԪ=ɣ
ǧ ҿ˵
ǧУĻǧ
̫ˡ˵תȥ ̸ҵ̸۾С
ȻǺOk Ok ҲǮˣǧ
ǧҾͲˡ
ָ ǧ塰
ͣ˽Ų̽šǧ壬ƿɿڿְɡ
ҲɵЦǧһƿ֡
ڸһӻֵʱ Oumarӵ֣˵ҪװĿ֡ڰƵĽͷͨǶǺƿװĿ֣ƿ˻ظԵõһЩ˻صƿѺOumarĵĽӹ֣ ֻ Je taimeҰ㣩OumarΪʲôҪƿװĿ֣һ֣Ӻˣ;
ûеʲôãOumarչʱȥֹӵҪʲôáOumarԼʱ䣬ǼгһȥֻOumarӱ¿ͻˡ
ǰԶ̯λǸǰȾɫ˸ɫͼƳɵﴫͳ洦ɼDZм︾ŮDzɫIJƥ̯ӺЦسҴкҪЩϣһλ˿鳤͵IJ飬ΧΧȥָҵţп㣬̫ˣЩôΧȹ죡DZһλŮ˵ ƣĶƯ µ Viens! Tu achets quelques mtres pour ta femme, que ce qu'elle joli ! Ƕ˵ˣŮҲЦ
˵ֹֹ֯Ⱦ bogolan һִͳֹƷɫֹ֯ɵİɫȻͲҶ֭Ⱦϣ һһȾ. ͳֹȾҪʱ൱ģȾһ֯Ҫߣڵʱ䣬õ¡
Wumarra ֯Ʒ·ߣ ӣŸĸѧȾѾǣͷˣŮͶϱҲѧϰ˺öˣWumarra ǣ֯Ǵʼʵߣ
ͨӰ֯ɰɫ ŮͼȾϺͻȾÿһɫҪˮϴɹɣȻܻϵڶɫһ֯ҪɫĻҪʱɵģ ֯Ĺ̡
ŷһЩɫֹƷһЩȾȾ֯۸ ҲһЩѵļΪ̺ ̺ʹãdzءWumarra һҵֳ֪Ϊʲôһõbogolan ŷô
ʱʵķгţǴһ̯λһ̷ǴŷķˬʵЦڶÿ˿֣ܿӡ̵ЩŮˣ ǷģСģ Żģ̬ȴݣЦϡ
ת۵˺OumarԼʱ䣬磲㣬 Oumar̯λںһο㵸ؽţǾƵģǽӢοͽǣȻOumarܽӢô䣬ǺԺĺοּۡ˵ʰ̯ӻȥ
OumarеƷòװһôƵıǽ˳ Oumar˵Ҫ ˵ǵһ˾ԱԺĺ·ߵ˴к ʶ˸Ժð˵ʲôOumarļڰƳǵĶϲOumarһ¿½˺ܶӣмͥᵽΨһΧ̫ã ҳdzҲкܶܶӡOumarĸһѧУķʦһһáһƽ һСԺӣ ӵǽɫġOumarĸԺһЩߣ ҿ˵ϵĸʽϹӣпɿڿֵģѩ̵ȣOumarĸһЩƤϸƿһЩСģͣ͵гȥ
أ
OumarԺӵһߣ һҾ־⣬ӣľ壬ֻOumarһС䣬ÿֹӰģľ嶤ģ £ֱһƷOumar˵Һһģ һɣ chic, 𣿡
ԭһͨϺOumar˵йģˢͱһˡǵ
Oumarÿϰĸôõгȥۣ ֡ʱ䣬ѧϰ˵ҪѧЩӢ ܺο⣬ʲô ԥ˵һЩǮ ȥھӼڷ˵ǮףͯɻδȫȥϴֵĿ
Sgou
Ӱ˳նһֱͨɳĮԵԻͷٵó-ͨͼTombouctou Ҳ͢ͿͼǽնȥѰʧĹųTombouctou
˰ţŹ·ٶSgouʻȥ·խģ ʻʻƵijϣĴͿԽҰسصĴСʿ·ߵë¿ ·ߵľɫҲϱ任ţɢڻҰķӶͺģɺԵϺٿƬ̲ݣǸɿݵĹľԣʱһЩɽݵֻʣһƤˮţڿDz۵IJݣеɽǰâϣֱͼȥҶӣDz·ijֻѰһпԾĶ
ӳǸâͻǿŻĻķҲʱߴ׳Baobab ľƣҶľֻԽк ΪӣɵҰdzϲĹʵ֦ӿ еֱܴﵽϣ꼾֦Ҷïʢ˺ģº꣱£Ҷȱˮ䣬ȴǹʵļڣϹâľ״ĹʵʵƤһëĹѩɫζģѹˮĥɽ֭ǸάC ϣʵѿĥɷ״ȿʳҲΪһƸкҩҶʵʱΪ߲ʳҲҩãƤѹƽϸԱӣߴ׳ĶԴˮÿһã˵ϵ۴Ƭƶϵĺ
ھһЩСӵʱʱкż˩һĺĹʵ˾AntouһĹӣõпһɫĹһͻˣеǵĸо ҲһЩɹɵʲеֻڹǵĶ˿һСڣѹͳֻһЩ棬 ѿڷϣͿϸͼ ͳһԺƯɳһЩŮͷװ㽶âĴӣ߱ϱصĸɲҿܶػŮ˳£Ȳ졣
һЩŮˢһ̵СľˢһЩ֦ɣ ú֦ģᆳСľˢˢȥϣÿ϶ˢ ʱͳϲãǵ˾Antouһ ʱʻʱҲţ˵֦ģ ʹĹЧһЩˢʹÿͷʹкƯݵãѹַ˶һڽݡ
СʱļʻǵִSgouǣĵڶУڣʱBamara ҲΪնӵĸڡܹҵһ˿ĻĺۼDZ·Ըߴľڸǵboulevards һЩʽߵķҲǸʱʽķֻ·Ǻɫǵģ·ϵë¿ֳţˣ˸ţڿĺ·ƵǰУʱдȹŮˣͷˮͰƶʱгĺӣţ֮䣬»Ц⻭ʹΪȵ궯ƽ⻭ᶨļʵġ
նӴSgouǴǵҲΧźӣͰƱ˵ҪЩǶԲֲũΪľֻлľƵСе˹ġѲõгۣڼѬ㣬 ûб¿ɳʱ䱣棬նһֵ˳Ϊcapitaine 㡣SgouLauberge ƵIJƷζcapitaineһֹ millet Ŀcouscous һģdzΪfish goulacheп飬ըƣڼ֭֭dzζ
ͣ Ϧչţ ɢնӱߣӰߵгûɢȥSgou кܶˣƸͺŵˮޣ̳ӣЩ˳˵ߵmopti, Tombouctou ȵءӱŮˢϴư裬ںϴ裬ϴһţҲһЩĴƯںģӱͷµϦȾ˽ɫɫڷУɫʡ Photo 08Marco Paoluzzo
ͷһλ˸dzնǵĸӣÿʱͷϵ棬 ǵĺɺԣҲĬĬԸƬɳĮеԶ
Photo 08Marco Paoluzzo
Sgoukoro
Sgoukoro һSgouǣСӣBambara ķԴء͵Bambara ʽķӺ¡
˴ڵʱмӸǵںܱߺ˾Antou Dzι۴ҪѸӵĹۿա
Ժ⣬һЩкŮΧԺſڣAntou һ ӣ ԭŮӵĸգмŮĸ״ڵȴһǸĸʩߡ
ڷŶкŮǿԸϰףкͨڣ꣬Ůڣꡣ
ҵԺӺܴҲܶ࣬ҶIJǷӣӺͺҲܶࡣ
Photo 08Marco Paoluzzo
սԺкӸͨţ ֻһŰ¿㣬Űӵ˹ҲԼˣڵӰ͵һ㶼бһĴȻ٣ټôߵˣ彡׳沿ǷϬҺȻ뵽һʵĿҰϿչӥֻЩҰĺӸԼһҵˣֺѺϣ̬ȴӵʷ״ԼļʷǽһӣǿԲιӣ ʽûбաͬ⣬һһŮƬ ŮӽҲȴŮеһյʱûһ˿ЦݣAntou ķ룬֪Ůӽ꣹꣬ǽиޣͨڣʱʼйŮӾͿԼӣŮˣŮԸⲻԸҡҡͷӵǣиŮӣˣ û ȻûкԸȢҲ˴ҵЦϣòܵĵطȥˡҪԼŮϵϰס
⼴ȵرȥٵŮ۾ãͿκε飬ԶһʯͷĥŮˣҺȻһֳ嶯һִ뿪ij嶯