- Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
西班牙台阶- 罗马假日
- Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
艺高人胆大吧,LUCY敢拍最后那一张,佩服哦 - Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
Excellent pictures!
Thank you very much for the postcard. I just posted some travelogue at CND--but no pictures--I'm only good at words.:) - Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
楼上,那你还不赶紧的,和露茜MM套个近乎,图文并茂珠联璧合一下? - Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
哦,罗马,罗马! - Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
我也来贴两张罗马的PP:
星期天中午12点,总是可以看到教皇在窗口出现,用拉丁、法、德、英、西班牙、意大利等语言作报告。我们和人群在下面起哄欢呼。 - posted on 01/09/2007
尚能饭 wrote:
Excellent pictures!
Thank you very much for the postcard. I just posted some travelogue at CND--but no pictures--I'm only good at words.:)
刚刚读了, 好有趣!
很高兴你喜欢我的明信片!新年快乐!
zt Mr. 尚能饭 wrote:
在人生的旅途上,你是否也是一个inexperienced traveler呢?
与漫长的地质年代相比,人的一生真是白驹过隙。爱因斯坦在My Living Philosophy一文中曾开宗明义地说过:Strange is our situation here upon earth. Each of us comes for a short visit, not knowing why, yet sometimes seeming to divine a purpose.(我们立身于地球上的情形也真奇怪。我们每人都是匆匆过客,且不知为何而来,但有时又似乎是命中注定的。--尚译)。
人因害怕孤独而群居,又要在群居中去独处。
- Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
小赵~ wrote:
艺高人胆大吧,LUCY敢拍最后那一张,佩服哦
谢谢小赵! 这可是罗马的精华所在! - Re: 罗马掠影posted on 01/09/2007
咋两扇窗户里都出现了教皇?
DingLin2 wrote:
我也来贴两张罗马的PP:
星期天中午12点,总是可以看到教皇在窗口出现,用拉丁、法、德、英、西班牙、意大利等语言作报告。我们和人群在下面起哄欢呼。 - posted on 01/09/2007
lucy wrote:
谢谢小赵! 这可是罗马的精华所在!
我也来罗马的精华:
最后这张是我的最爱,在罗马城外的山城 Frascati 的城堡里拍的。 - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
各位的精华很精华,请问那些马赛石头是什么石,年代有多久了?
有没有谁介绍过法国的Lorie Valley? - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
A-Shan is so beautiful :)
I want to marry you too :) - posted on 01/10/2007
阿姗: You are so pretty!
July wrote:
A-Shan is so beautiful :) I want to marry you too :)
我没意见:)))
- Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
看到 Lucy MM 拍的第四张红叶图,我第一个反应就是--史坦福大学的下午。:)
一听讲罗马我就来劲了。向往不已啊! - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
LUCY,阿姗及JULY的意大利照片让我看了很泄气:这些地方我都去过,也照了许多相片;可就是没有一张拿得出手的。由于我不愿意承认自己水平不行,所以只能怪相机了。我用的男式相机,下次旅游,应换架女式相机试试。 - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
刚才翻了翻,找到几张从前用男式相机照的。…
(Oops, these photos are grossly over-sized and I had to remove them from the server.) - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
阿姗贴的谁家大姐?人才这么好! - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
美人和美景。
唯独缺丁先生的美文。 - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
美景固然是美,但毕竟是凝固的,生命感没有那张红衣红鞋的青春那么强。
分明是东方朱利叶罗拨特么:)是阿珊MM么?赞一个。
个人感觉,露喜MM摄影有天赋,构成上和视角上都是很有悟性的。粉一下。
问题来了:露喜MM自己的照片捏?继续强烈要求:上MM几己的PP。
如此良辰美景,怎能缺了佳人 - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/10/2007
阿姗好漂亮! - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
rzp wrote:
各位的精华很精华,请问那些马赛石头是什么石,年代有多久了?
有没有谁介绍过法国的Lorie Valley?
Are you ask about LOIRE Valley France?
- Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
DingLin2 wrote:
rzp wrote:Are you ask about LOIRE Valley France?
各位的精华很精华,请问那些马赛石头是什么石,年代有多久了?
有没有谁介绍过法国的Lorie Valley?
Yes, sorry for the typo, got to learn French now. You wrote about it? Can't wait to read. - posted on 01/10/2007
rzp wrote:Sorry I cannot write in Chinese right now and my English is baaaaaaad.
Loire Vally is beautiful. If you have time, you can visit those chateaus one by one, traveling with train, staying half day or one night at each town. You have to visit 3 or 4 the best and most famous chateaus, and chose carefully a couple not so famous small chateau. If you are a group of 3 or 4 people, rent a car, and you will save a lot time and can see many more place (by the way, I don't like the idea, it makes me nervous). If you are young and strong, you can figure out a way to travel with bike or motorbike, I saw some American doing this way (by the way, I like the idea but I am not young anymore). - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
rzp wrote:During this season, traveling, lodging and eating at towns along Loire river should be very easy. You can wander on the streets and lanes of these small towns. You can stay at small hotels nearby railway stations or nearby town squares. If you want to save money, control the times eating at nice restraunts. You can buy food and wine exactly like a town people.
And, you will never forget Loire Vally in the rest of your life. - posted on 01/10/2007
阿姗 wrote:
看到 Lucy MM 拍的第四张红叶图,我第一个反应就是--史坦福大学的下午。:)
一听讲罗马我就来劲了。向往不已啊!
同感,我也是一下就想起了史坦福大学的下午那张图,还有一张去年秋在纽约这拍的。把这几张爬墙藤放在一起,天下壁藤比一比。
加州(Palo Alto)--意大利(Rome)--纽约(Scarsdale):
加州的姹红,是一种青春;
罗马的璨红,是一种成熟;
纽约的青红,是一种成长。 - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/10/2007
DingLin2 wrote:
rzp wrote:And, you will never forget Loire Vally in the rest of your life.
谢谢林老师,听起来是个好地方。The world, afterall, is wonderful. - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/11/2007
美丽!谢谢阿姗和rzp!
加州的姹红,是一种青春;
罗马的璨红,是一种成熟;
纽约的青红,是一种成长。 - posted on 01/11/2007
罗马 by 埃兹拉·庞德
呵,初到罗马来寻觅罗马的诗人,
你会发现罗马找不到能够称为罗马的东西,
那些断垣残壁和宫殿的旧苑荒台,
罗马的名称只能在这些院墙之内保留。
瞧一瞧兴衰荣辱是如何发生的吧。
她曾经迫使全世界俯伏在她的法令之下,
征服了一切,如今却被征服,
因为她是时间的牺牲品,而时间荡尽了一切。
罗马是罗马唯一的最后的纪念碑,
罗马只征服了罗马这一个城市,
急速奔向大海的底伯尔河是罗马的唯一遗迹,
呵,世界,你是一场变幻无常的笑剧!
那些在时间打击下能够站稳的
它们比倏忽的时间消逝得更快。
- Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/11/2007
Oh Rome, my country, city of the soul!
---- Lord Byron
到罗马去,只要有这一句就够啦! - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/11/2007
拜伦在罗马:)
DingLin2 wrote:
Oh Rome, my country, city of the soul!
---- Lord Byron
到罗马去,只要有这一句就够啦! - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/11/2007
Oh Rome, my country, city of the soul!
---- Lord Byron
到罗马去,只要有这一句就够啦!
- Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/12/2007
Oh Lucy, on top of Heavenly, smile from the future!
lucy wrote:
Oh Rome, my country, city of the soul!
---- Lord Byron
到罗马去,只要有这一句就够啦!
小赵~ wrote:马克. 吐温惊叹太浩湖 (Lake Tahoe) 之美曾写下了 :“ I thought it must be the fairest picture the whole earth affords."
问题来了:露喜自己的照片捏?
*照片是今年二月照的。:) Lucy @ top of Heavenly - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/12/2007
lucy wrote:
Oh Rome, my country, city of the soul!
---- Lord Byron
到罗马去,只要有这一句就够啦!
马克. 吐温惊叹太浩湖 (Lake Tahoe) 之美曾写下了 :“ I thought it must be the fairest picture the whole earth affords."
跑题了吧。太浩湖怎么.... 跟罗马相提并论了?:) - Re: 罗马掠影 - DingLin2:教皇 - 阿姗美丽的笑容 - 夕阳中的罗马斗兽场posted on 01/12/2007
快下班,看到小赵~ 点名要照片, 匆忙中从网上找了一张我的照片贴在上面, 没想到就犯错误了!:(
阿姗 wrote:
跑题了吧。太浩湖怎么.... 跟罗马相提并论了?:)
底伯尔河
Vatican - posted on 01/12/2007
lucy wrote:
快下班,看到小赵~ 点名要照片, 匆忙中从网上找了一张贴在上面, 没想到就犯错误了!:(
小赵要看你在罗马的照片呀~~
至于马克吐温,他也去过罗马。看他写的圣彼得大教堂:
Of course we have been to the monster Church of St. Peter frequently. I knew its dimensions. I knew it was a prodigious structure. I knew it was just about the length of the Capitol at Washington - say seven hundred and thirty feet. I knew three hundred and sixty-four feet wide and consequently wider than the Capitol. I knew that the cross on the top of the dome of the church was four hundred and thirty-eight feet above the ground, and therefore about a hundred or maybe a hundred and twenty-five feet higher than the dome of the Capitol. Thus I had one gauge. I wished to come as near forming a correct idea of how it was going to look as possible; I had a curiosity to see how much I would err. I erred considerably. St. Peter's did not look nearly so large as the Capitol, and certainly not a twentieth part as beautiful, from the outside.
When we reached the door and stood fairly within the church, it was impossible to comprehend that it was a very large building. I had to cipher a comprehension of it. I had to ransack my memory for some more similes. St. Peter's is bulky. Its height and size would represent two of the Washington Capitol set one on top of the other - if the Capitol were wider; or two blocks or two blocks and a half of ordinary buildings set one on top of the other. St Peter's was that large, but it could and would not look so. The trouble was that everything in it and about it was on such a scale of uniform vastness that there were no contrasts to judge by - none but the people, and I had not noticed them. They were insects. The statues of children holding vases of holy water were immense, according to the tables of figures, but so was everything else around them. The mosaic pictures in the dome were huge, and were made of thousands and thousands of cubes of glass as large as the end of my little finger, but those pictures looked smooth, and gaudy of color, and in good proportion to the dome. Evidently they would not answer to measure by. Away down toward the far end of the church (I thought it was really clear at the far end, but discovered afterward that it was in the center, under the dome) stood the thing they call the baldachino - a great bronze pyramidal framework like that which upholds a mosquito bar. It only looked like a considerably magnified bedstead - nothing more. Yet I knew it was a good deal more than half as high as Niagara Falls. It was overshadowed by a dome so mighty that its own height was snubbed. The four great square piers or pillars that stand equidistant from each other in the church and support the roof, I could not work up to their real dimensions by any method of comparison. I knew that the faces of each were about the width of a very large dwelling house front (fifty or sixty feet) and that they were twice as high as an ordinary three-story dwelling, but still they looked small. I tried all the different ways I could think of to compel myself to understand how large St. Peter's was, but with small success. The mosaic portrait of an Apostle who was writing with a pen six feet long seemed only an ordinary Apostle.
But the people attracted my attention after a while. To stand in the door of St. Peter's and look at men down toward its further extremity, two blocks away, has a diminishing effect on them; surrounded by the prodigious pictures and statues, and lost in the vast spaces, they look very much smaller than they would if they stood two blocks away in the open air. I "averaged" a man as he passed me and watched him as he drifted far down by the baldachino and beyond - watched him dwindle to an insignificant school-boy, and then, in the midst of the silent throng of human pygmies gliding about him, I lost him. The church had lately been decorated, on the occasion of a great ceremony in honor of St. Peter, and men were engaged now in removing the flowers and gilt paper from the walls and pillars. As no ladders could reach the great heights, the men swung themselves down from balustrades and the capitals of pilasters by ropes to do this work. The upper gallery, which encircles the inner sweep of the dome, is two hundred and forty feet above the floor of the church - very few steeples in America could reach up to it. Visitors always go up there to look down into the church because one gets the best idea of some of the heights and distances from that point. While we stood on the floor one of the workmen swung loose from that gallery at the end of a long rope. I had not supposed before that a man could look so much like a spider. He was insignificant in size, and his rope seemed only a thread. Seeing that he took up so little space, I could believe the story then that ten thousand troops went to St. Peter's once to hear mass, and their commanding officer came afterwards and, not finding them, supposed they had not yet arrived. But they were in the church, nevertheless - they were in one of the transepts. Nearly fifty thousand persons assembled in St. Peter's to hear the publishing of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. It is estimated that the floor of the church affords standing room for - for a large number of people; I have forgotten the exact figures. But it s no matter - it is near enough.
They have twelve small pillars in St. Peter's, which came from Solomon's Temple. They have also - which was far more interesting to me - a piece of the true Cross, and some nails, and a part of the crown of thorns.
Of course we ascended to the summit of the dome, and of course we also went up into the gilt copper ball which is above it. There was room there for a dozen persons, with a little crowding and it was as close and hot as an oven. Some of these people who are so fond of writing their names in prominent places had been there before us - a million or two, I should think. From the dome of St. Peter's one can see every notable object in Rome from the Castle of St. Angelo to the Coliseum. He can discern the seven hills upon which Rome is built. He can see the Tiber, and the locality of the bridge which Horatius kept "in the brave days of old" when Lars Porsena attempted to cross it with his invading host. He can see the spot where the Horatii and the Curiatii fought their famous battle. He can see the broad green Campagna, stretching away toward the mountains, with its scattered arches and broken aqueducts of the olden time, so picturesque in their gray ruin, and so daintily festooned with vines. He can see the Alban Mountains, the Appennines, the Sabine Hills, and the blue Mediterranean. He can see a panorama that is varied, extensive, beautiful to the eye, and more illustrious in history than any other in Europe. About his feet is spread the remnant of a city that once had a population of four million souls; and among its massed edifices stand the ruins of temples, columns and triumphal arches that knew the Caesars and the noonday of Roman splendor; and close by them, in unimpaired strength, is a drain of arched and heavy masonry that belonged to that older city which stood here before Romulus and Remus were born or Rome thought of. The Appian Way is here yet, and looking much as it did, perhaps, when the triumphal processions of the emperors moved over it in other days bringing fettered princes from the confines of the earth.
-- Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad (1869)
- Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/12/2007
Everyone wants to....
July wrote:
A-Shan is so beautiful :)
I want to marry you too :) - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/12/2007
哪个山东?老弟?哥让你们,退出角逐。:)
如果是阿珊的话,看上去是蛮严肃的,是要让你们吃不了兜着走的。
山东 wrote:
Everyone wants to....
July wrote:
A-Shan is so beautiful :)
I want to marry you too :)
- Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/12/2007
阿姗在意大利的马路上拣到五分钱了?
灿烂的笑容,真正是发自心灵深处的呵!
- posted on 01/13/2007
Thanks! 阿珊!
罗马 by 朱自清
罗马(Rome)是历史上大帝国的都城,想象起来,总是气象万千似的。现在它的光荣虽然早过去了,但是从七零八落的废墟里,后人还可仿佛于百一。这些废墟,旧有的加上新发掘的,几乎随处可见,像特意点缀这座古城的一般。这边几根石柱子,那边几段破墙,带着当年的尘土,寂寞地陷在大坑里;虽然在夏天中午的太阳,照上去也黯黯淡淡,没有多少劲儿。就中罗马市场(forum Romanum)规模最大。这里是古罗马城的中心,有法庭,神庙,与住宅的残迹。卡司多和波鲁斯庙的三根哥林斯式的柱子,顶上还有片石相连着;在全场中最为秀拔,像三个丰姿飘洒的少年用手横遮着额角,正在眺望这一片古市场。想当年这里终日挤挤闹闹的也不知有多少人,各有各的心思,各有各的手法;现在只剩三两起游客指手画脚地在死一般的寂静里。犄角上有一所住宅,情形还好;一面是三间住屋,有壁画,已模糊了,地是嵌石铺成的;旁厢是饭厅,壁画极讲究,画的都是正大的题目,他们是很看重饭厅的。市场上面便是巴拉丁山,是饱历兴衰的地方。最早是一个村落,只有些茅草屋子;罗马共和末期,一姓贵族聚居在这里;帝国时代,更是繁华。游人走上山去,两旁宏壮的住屋还留下完整的黄土坯子,可以见出当时阔人家的气局。屋顶一片平场,原是许多花园,总名法内塞园子,也是四百年前的旧迹;现在点缀些花木,一角上还有一座小喷泉。在这园子里看脚底下的古市场,全景都在望中了。
市场东边是斗狮场,还可以看见大概的规模;在许多宏壮的废墟里,这个算是情形最好的。外墙是一个大圆圈儿,分四层,要仰起头才能看到顶上。下三层都是一色的圆拱门和柱子,上一层只有小长方窗户和楞子,这种单纯的对照教人觉得这座建筑是整整的一块,好像直上云霄的松柏,老干亭亭,没有一些繁枝细节。里面中间原是大平场;中古时在这儿筑起堡垒,现在满是一道道颓毁的墙基,倒成了四不像。这场子便是斗狮场;环绕着的是观众的坐位。下两层是包厢,皇帝与外宾的在最下层,上层是贵族的;第三层公务员坐;最上层平民坐:共可容四五万人。狮子洞还在下一层,有口直通场中。斗狮是一种刑罚,也可以说是一种裁判:罪囚放在狮子面前,让狮子去搏他;他若居然制死了狮子,便是直道在他一边,他就可自由了。但自然是让狮子吃掉的多;这些人大约就算活该。想到临场的罪囚和他亲族的悲苦与恐怖,他的仇人的痛快,皇帝的威风,与一般观众好奇的紧张的面目,真好比一场恶梦。这个场子建筑在一世纪,原是戏园子,后来才改作斗狮之用。
斗狮场南面不远是卡拉卡拉浴场。古罗马人颇讲究洗澡,浴场都造得好,这一所更其华丽。全场用大理石砌成,用嵌石铺地;有壁画,有雕像,用具也不寻常。房子高大,分两层,都用圆拱门,走进去觉得稳稳的;里面金碧辉煌,与壁画雕像相得益彰。居中是大健身房,有喷泉两座。场子占地六英亩,可容一千六百人洗浴。洗浴分冷热水蒸气三种,各占一所屋子。古罗马人上浴场来,不单是为洗澡;他们可以在这儿商量买卖,和解讼事等等,正和我们上茶店上饭店一般作用。这儿还有好些游艺,他们公余或倦后来洗一个澡,找几个朋友到游艺室去消遣一回,要不然,到客厅去谈谈话,都是很“写意”的。现在却只剩下一大堆遗迹。大理石本来还有不少,早给搬去造圣彼得等教堂去了;零星的物件陈列在博物院里。我们所看见的只是些巍巍峨峨参参差差的黄土骨子,站在太阳里,还有学者们精心研究出来的《卡拉卡拉浴场图》的照片,都只是所谓过屠门大嚼而已。
罗马从中古以来便以教堂著名。康南海《罗马游纪》中引杜牧的诗“南朝四百八十寺,多少楼台烟雨中”,光景大约有些相像的;只可惜初夏去的人无从领略那烟雨罢了。圣彼得堂最精妙,在城北尼罗圆场的旧址上。尼罗在此地杀了许多基督教徒。据说圣彼得上十字架后也便葬在这里。这教堂几经兴废,现在的房屋是十六世纪初年动工,经了许多建筑师的手。密凯安杰罗七十二岁时,受保罗第三的命,在这儿工作了十七年。后人以为天使保罗第三假手于这一个大艺术家,给这座大建筑定下了规模;以后虽有增改,但大体总是依着他的。教堂内部参照卡拉卡拉浴场的式样,许多高大的圆拱门稳稳地支着那座穹隆顶。教堂长六百九十六英尺,宽四百五十英尺,穹隆顶高四百○三英尺,可是乍看不觉得是这么大。因为平常看屋子大小,总以屋内饰物等为标准,饰物等的尺寸无形中是有谱子的。圣彼得堂里的却大得离了谱子,“天使像巨人,鸽子像老鹰”;所以教堂真正的大小,一下倒不容易看出了。但是你若看里面走动着的人,便渐渐觉得不同。教堂用彩色大理石砌墙,加上好些嵌石的大幅的名画,大都是亮蓝与朱红二色;鲜明丰丽,不像普通教堂一味阴沉沉的。密凯安杰罗雕的彼得像,温和光洁,别是一格,在教堂的犄角上。
圣彼得堂两边的列柱回廊像两只胳膊拥抱着圣彼得圆场;留下一个口子,却又像个玦。场中央是一座埃及的纪功方尖柱,左右各有大喷泉。那两道回廊是十七世纪时亚历山大第三所造,成于倍里尼(Pernini)之手。廊子里有四排多力克式石柱,共二百八十四根;顶上前后都有栏干,前面栏干上并有许多小雕像。场左右地上有两块圆石头,站在上面看同一边的廊子,觉得只有一排柱子,气魄更雄伟了。这个圆场外有一道弯弯的白石线,便是梵蒂冈与意大利的分界。教皇每年复活节站在圣彼得堂的露台上为人民祝福,这个场子内外据说是拥挤不堪的。
圣保罗堂在南城外,相传是圣保罗葬地的遗址,也是柱子好。门前一个方院子,四面廊子里都是些整块石头凿出来的大柱子,比圣彼得的两道廊子却质朴得多。教堂里面也简单空廓,没有什么东西。但中间那八十根花岗石的柱子,和尽头处那六根蜡石的柱子,纵横地排着,看上去仿佛到了人迹罕至的远古的森林里。柱子上头墙上,周围安着嵌石的历代教皇像,一律圆框子。教堂旁边另有一个小柱廊,是十二世纪造的。这座廊子围着一所方院子,在低低的墙基上排着两层各色各样的细柱子——有些还嵌着金色玻璃块儿。这座廊子精工可以说像湘绣,秀美却又像王羲之的书法。
在城中心的威尼斯方场上巍然蹯踞着的,是也马奴儿第二的纪功廊。这是近代意大利的建筑,不缺少力量。一道弯弯的长廊,在高大的石基上。前面三层石级:第一层在中间,第二三层分开左右两道,通到廊子两头。这座廊子左右上下都匀称,中间又有那一弯,便兼有动静之美了。从廊前列柱间看到暮色中的罗马全城,觉得幽远无穷。
罗马艺术的宝藏自然在梵蒂冈宫;卡辟多林博物院中也有一些,但比起梵蒂冈来就太少了。梵蒂冈有好几个雕刻院,收藏约有四千件,著名的《拉奥孔》(Laocooen)便在这里。画院藏画五十幅,都是精品,拉飞尔的《基督现身图》是其中之一,现在却因修理关着。梵蒂冈的壁画极精彩,多是拉飞尔和他门徒的手笔,为别处所不及。有四间拉飞尔室和一些廊子,里面满是他们的东西。拉飞尔由此得名。他是乌尔比奴人,父亲是诗人兼画家。他到罗马后,极为人所爱重,大家都要教他画;他忙不过来,只好收些门徒作助手。他的特长在画人体。这是实在的人,肢体圆满而结实,有肉有骨头。这自然受了些佛罗伦司派的影响,但大半还是他的天才。他对于气韵,远近,大小与颜色也都有敏锐的感觉,所以成为大家。他在罗马住的屋子还在,坟在国葬院里。歇司丁堂与拉飞尔室齐名,也在宫内。这个神堂是十五世纪时歇司土司第四造的,第一百三十三英尺,宽四十五英尺。两旁墙的上部,都由佛罗伦司派画家装饰,有波铁乞利在内。屋顶的画满都是密凯安杰罗的,歇司丁堂著名在此。密凯安杰罗是佛罗伦司派的极峰。他不多作画,一生精华都在这里。他画这屋顶时候,以深沉肃穆的心情渗入画中。他的构图里气韵流动着,形体的勾勒也自然灵妙,还有那雄伟出尘的风度,都是他独具的好处。堂中祭坛的墙上也是他的大画,叫做《最后的审判》。这幅壁画是以后多年画的,费了他七年工夫。
罗马城外有好几处隧道,是一世纪到五世纪时候基督教徒挖下来做墓穴的,但也用作敬神的地方。尼罗搜杀基督教徒,他们往往避难于此。最值得看的是圣卡里斯多隧道。那儿还有一种热诚花,十二瓣,据说是代表十二使徒的。我们看的是圣赛巴司提亚堂底下的那一处,大家点了小蜡烛下去。曲曲折折的狭路,两旁是大大小小深深浅浅的墓穴;现在自然是空的,可是有时还看见些零星的白骨。有一处据说圣彼得住过,成了龛堂,壁上画得很好。另处也还有些壁画的残迹。这个隧道似乎有四层,占的地方也不小。圣赛巴司提亚堂里保存着一块石头,上有大脚印两个;他们说是耶稣基督的,现在供养在神龛里。另一个教堂也供着这么一块石头,据说是仿本。
缧绁堂建于第五世纪,专为供养拴过圣彼得的一条铁链子。现在这条链子还好好的在一个精美的龛子里。堂中周理乌司第二纪念碑上有密凯安杰罗雕的几座像;摩西像尤为著名。那种原始的坚定的精神和勇猛的力量从眉目上,胡须上,胳膊上,手上,腿上,处处透露出来,教你觉得见着了一个伟大的人。又有个阿拉古里堂,中有圣婴像。这个圣婴自然便是耶稣基督;是十五世纪耶路撒冷一个教徒用橄榄木雕的。他带它到罗马,供养在这个堂里。四方来许愿的很多,据说非常灵验;它身上密层层地挂着许多金银饰器都是人家还愿的。还有好些信写给它,表示敬慕的意思。
罗马城西南角上,挨着古城墙,是英国坟场或叫做新教坟场。这里边葬的大都是艺术家与诗人,所以来参谒来凭吊的意大利人和别国的人终日不绝。就中最有名的自然是十九世纪英国浪漫诗人雪莱与济兹的墓。雪莱的心葬在英国,他的遗灰在这儿。墓在古城墙下斜坡上,盖有一块长方的白石;第一行刻着“心中心”,下面两行是生卒年月,再下三行是莎士比亚《风暴》中的仙歌。
彼无毫毛损,
海涛变化之,
从此更神奇。
好在恰恰关合雪莱的死和他的为人。济兹墓相去不远,有墓碑,上面刻着道:
这座坟里是
英国一位少年诗人的遗体;
他临死时候,
想着他仇人们的恶势力,
痛心极了,叫将下面这一句话
刻在他的墓碑上:
“这儿躺着一个人,
他的名字是用水写的。”
末一行是速朽的意思;但他的名字正所谓“不废江河万古流”,又岂是当时人所料得到的。后来有人别作新解,根据这一行话做了一首诗,连济兹的小像一块儿刻铜嵌在他墓旁墙上。这首诗的原文是很有风趣的。
济兹名字好,
说是水写成;
一点一滴水,
后人的泪痕——
英雄枯万骨,
难如此感人。
安睡吧,
陈词虽挂漏,
高风自峥嵘。
这座坟场是罗马富有诗意的一角;有些爱罗马的人虽不死在意大利,也会遗嘱葬在这座“永远的城”的永远的一角里。
(原载1932年10月1日《中学生》第28号) - Re: 罗马掠影 - 罗马的精华posted on 01/13/2007
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