·鲁 鸣·
纽约,是我的第二故乡。我在这里已待了13年。它对我生命的影响,仅次于我的故乡柳州。我在柳州长大成人,在那里生活了19年。这两个城市有很大的不同,前者是以生产优质棺材闻名于世的中国南疆工业城市(我在纽约时报上读到关于柳州棺材的长篇报道),后者是美国东岸移民最多的世界金融和艺术之都,然而它们有非常相似之处:两个城市都有令人咋舌的粗野肮脏的地方;很多人都是从外地移民来的,有著敢闯敢干的大胆和冲劲。
我最初到纽约是为了到哥伦比亚大学攻读博士。刚到纽约时,看到它的迷乱,便对自己说毕业当天我就离开这鬼地方。然而,我在迷乱中很快地喜爱上这个世界之都。只要有时间精力,你可在纽约欣赏到一流的文化艺术表演以及各种娱乐和饮食。只要大胆,你可目睹到许多古怪离奇的人和事。所谓迷乱,是一种混沌状态,让人眼花潦乱,人群攒动,地上纸屑飞扬,空气中飘荡著暧昧,艺术家和金融人士并肩接踵,遍地都是,于是整个城市每天歌舞升平,花天酒地。
迷乱,有非常令人心醉神迷的韵味,其本身还隐含著说不清楚的感觉。完全可说得明白,不能叫着迷乱。纽约的迷乱,正是它的这种匿名性。一个人在纽约闲逛,你可以不在乎平时的道貌岸然,不需要一本正经,没人理会你。居民们来自全世界各地,全球170多种语言在这里穿梭。所有国家的人,几乎都可在纽约碰到。我在哥伦比亚大学认识不少欧洲学生,不少人毕业后都留在了纽约。我问他们,为什么喜欢留在此地?他们都异口同声,纽约没人管我,我想干什么就干什么,工作机会多。我的一位香港朋友最喜欢纽约,是因为在这里吃饭或喝咖啡,无论多么拥挤,你可静静地坐在那里直到不想待为此,没人会打扰你,服务员不会赶你走。
最能体现纽约的迷乱,莫过于它的地铁。夏日的纽约地铁车站没有空调设备,非常闷热难受,有时让人喘不过气来,很象很多人在纽约的生存状态,压力大。很多地铁站台里,钢筋木材结构全裸露在外,张牙舞爪。纽约地铁全长656英里,有468个车站,四通八达。地铁票和巴士票可通用,很方便。正因如此,纽约地铁线路就像中国北方小吃炸麻花,形成开花状,又扭成一团。外地人到纽约,经常被地铁弄晕了,不是乘错了线路就是坐错了站。
除了斯坦岛,我在纽约每个区都住过,搬过7次家。我在这里结婚有了儿子,也在这里开始写作。长篇小说《背道而驰》的故事背景就设在纽约。如果说两年前我描述故乡的散文《柳州和柳州人》被读者叫好,那么《背道而驰》就令人迷乱了,因为它的故事是艾滋病、一夫两妻和同性恋。大多数读者不会去探究故事背后的哲理--人性是盲目的,只不过性爱是人最容易盲目而迷乱的一种。纽约,正是在迷乱中放射出它的万丈光芒。这种光芒,让人奋起,却也使人窒息。我让《背道而驰》里的生物教授在迷乱中患艾滋病而死,正如很多人从纽约这个战场上消亡,这是纽约的悲哀,人的悲哀。好在纽约人的奋博精神,是公认的。多年前,我在华盛顿首都面试一份工作,面试官得知我来自纽约,说:“你能在纽约生存,就可以在任何地方生存。”特别是“911”,让我看到纽约人的坚强和大气。
正因迷乱,纽约有无数的秘密,有魔似的魅力。关键看你怎么把握,怎么欣赏它。就城市建筑而言,纽约绝对谈不上是一个很美的地方。然而,它的开放、迷乱中的疯狂以及让人身不由己的神秘力量,让多思的人想入非非,吸引勇敢的人们前来大显身手。我有两个美国外地的女同事,非常喜欢纽约。我问她们为何会迷恋上纽约,她们说是因为看了有关纽约的影视,其中一位看了电视剧《欲望和城市》(Sex and the City)后就向往纽约。美国描写大城市的电影,多数都以纽约为背景。而《欲望和城市》,让全世界向往纽约的人大大增加。自从它上演后,纽约城里的大学成了报考者的热门,把那些大学官员们给乐坏了。
如果你在纽约并喜欢它,愿你不因它的迷乱而丧失了自我判断力,尽情享受它。如果你来纽约而讨厌它,那很容易:赶快离开。我刚搬到纽约不久,有位校友曾从德克萨斯州来纽约城外开会,想到城里来看我。当她驾著车进入曼哈顿时,已是夜色,眼看着纽约街上纷纷扬扬的迷乱,给吓坏了,连车也没敢停,就驾车回城外旅馆。象她这样的人可能不多。难就难的是,很多人对它爱恨交加,欲罢不能,一如纽约的迷乱,且本身也是一种迷乱。
□ 寄自美国
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
人一多,一杂,一自由就无法不迷乱。三个条件一汇聚,没有任何城市能和纽约比。当代巴比伦哪。在这样的城市生活,也就是在文明的前沿生活。
9.11在某种意义上可看作野蛮对文明的歇斯底里反应。
一接近纽约,你就能感觉它巨大心脏的搏动,快节奏而紊乱,文明的脉搏。
不过一提纽约,想的是曼哈顿,其余不过是垃圾桶而已。;)
Oh 曼哈顿,my kind of town!
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
纽约的建筑不咱样?鲁鸣在纽约住了13年算白搭了,嗬。 - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
I wish I can 迷乱 a little bit. My life is too god damn orderly!
Recently we have a chance to live in upper state NY. Is it plausible to live in a village where birds don't lay eggs, just so we can visit NYC once in a while with an hour long train ride? - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
One hour train ride is not bad here, 30 minites is very good already. Come!
Susan wrote:
I wish I can 迷乱 a little bit. My life is too god damn orderly!
Recently we have a chance to live in upper state NY. Is it plausible to live in a village where birds don't lay eggs, just so we can visit NYC once in a while with an hour long train ride? - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
嘿嘿,我可是蛮汉滩的老住户了。
New York, New York, we love you so much we call your name twice! (c:
注: 蛮汉滩又称 NY, NY.
Touche 说得是。There is no New York but NY NY. - posted on 09/26/2007
What about Chicago?????????????????
Chicago, Chicago, I love Chicago :-)
touche wrote:
人一多,一杂,一自由就无法不迷乱。三个条件一汇聚,没有任何城市能和纽约比。当代巴比伦哪。在这样的城市生活,也就是在文明的前沿生活。
9.11在某种意义上可看作野蛮对文明的歇斯底里反应。
一接近纽约,你就能感觉它巨大心脏的搏动,快节奏而紊乱,文明的脉搏。
不过一提纽约,想的是曼哈顿,其余不过是垃圾桶而已。;)
Oh 曼哈顿,my kind of town!
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
July wrote:
What about Chicago?????????????????
Chicago, Chicago, I love Chicago :-)
support you, i love Chicago too even i have never been there... :-) How does it look like? as 迷乱, 迷 and 乱 as NY? - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
Chicago downtown is better than 曼哈顿 :-) much better :-)
鹿希 wrote:
July wrote:support you, i love Chicago too even i have never been there... :-) How does it look like? as 迷乱, 迷 and 乱 as NY?
What about Chicago?????????????????
Chicago, Chicago, I love Chicago :-) - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
芝加哥也不错。只要是大都市就好。我也差点成为芝加哥人。只是因为怕冷就阴差阳错了。
当年房东的大儿子,一位正统犹太教徒在芝大神学院读书,我问他感觉如何。他说芝加哥有地方偏狭气(provincial),总当不了老大充老大。后来他去了纽约的Colgate教书。几年后带着老婆孩子去以色列扎根去了。 - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
touche wrote:只要是大都市就好。
Yes !!!!!!!! no matter where, but 大都市. - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
I have to admit shamefully, I love chicago best in his cold :-)
touche wrote:
芝加哥也不错。只要是大都市就好。我也差点成为芝加哥人。只是因为怕冷就阴差阳错了。
当年房东的大儿子,一位正统犹太教徒在芝大神学院读书,我问他感觉如何。他说芝加哥有地方偏狭气(provincial),总当不了老大充老大。后来他去了纽约的Colgate教书。几年后带着老婆孩子去以色列扎根去了。 - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/26/2007
July wrote:
What about Chicago?????????????????
Chicago, Chicago, I love Chicago :-)
还记得笨笨的诗?
O, Chicago,
In your name we sin.
:-) - posted on 09/26/2007
Haaaa, whenever I am in Chicago, I am just totally lost, sooooo 迷乱, sometimes so high, sometime so low...
At beginning, I thought I would only have one night stand with Chicago, now it seems it turns into a serious love affair...
:-)))))
八十一子 wrote:
July wrote:还记得笨笨的诗?
What about Chicago?????????????????
Chicago, Chicago, I love Chicago :-)
O, Chicago,
In your name we sin.
:-) - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/27/2007
有本Rem Koolhaas写的《Delirious New York》 - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/27/2007
How come you can keep your life so "god-damned" orderly when you have two little kids hopping around?
My life is anything but orderly..... :-)
Susan wrote:
I wish I can 迷乱 a little bit. My life is too god damn orderly!
Recently we have a chance to live in upper state NY. Is it plausible to live in a village where birds don't lay eggs, just so we can visit NYC once in a while with an hour long train ride? - posted on 09/27/2007
That is no bad too, defnitely not bad for a life which is anything but orderly. The price you are paying for a life is anything but orderly is well worthy. Who cares about order when you can have any other life.:)
Anyway, perhaps, it is the name what is to blamed or appraised. Isn't Wokong the monkey who destroyed all orders in the heaven? Is Susan most popular names for lady philosophors? Isn't that true Higanbana (彼岸花) belongs the other side of the world?
Now people ought to be careful when choosing names for themselves... or got to stop ADDing.:)
wukong wrote:
How come you can keep your life so "god-damned" orderly when you have two little kids hopping around?
My life is anything but orderly..... :-)
Susan wrote:
I wish I can 迷乱 a little bit. My life is too god damn orderly!
Recently we have a chance to live in upper state NY. Is it plausible to live in a village where birds don't lay eggs, just so we can visit NYC once in a while with an hour long train ride? - posted on 09/27/2007
By military precision. I am just kidding. :-) Actually I enjoy my orderly life, I had been delirious for too many years so it is kind of refreshing to have some structure in life. :-)
Thanks rzp. A lot of things need to be taken into consideration for this big decision. We are still debating. Most likely not though, coz we will have to take a pay cut of 200-250k over 2-3 years and have to work like crazy.
wukong wrote:
How come you can keep your life so "god-damned" orderly when you have two little kids hopping around? - posted on 09/28/2007
Susan: I wish I have an orderly life, rzp knows how crazy I am now, I hate it.
Susan wrote:
By military precision. I am just kidding. :-) Actually I enjoy my orderly life, I had been delirious for too many years so it is kind of refreshing to have some structure in life. :-)
Thanks rzp. A lot of things need to be taken into consideration for this big decision. We are still debating. Most likely not though, coz we will have to take a pay cut of 200-250k over 2-3 years and have to work like crazy.
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/28/2007
We have not seen pictures of streets marked by July's high heels, nor weekly memoir from her for quite a while. We sure got bunches ZTs she did , but they are not the same......
Susan, Best wishes to you and whatever you decide.
迷乱 is an interesting word.
July wrote:
Susan: I wish I have an orderly life, rzp knows how crazy I am now, I hate it.
Susan wrote: - posted on 09/28/2007
These days, I only go to office to see my mad boss :-), the only thing I keep for myself is my high heels :-)
I need to be saved :-) If not totally, at least, most of my soul, lost!
:-)
rzp wrote:
We have not seen pictures of streets marked by July's high heels, nor weekly memoir from her for quite a while. We sure got bunches ZTs she did , but they are not the same......
Susan, Best wishes to you and whatever you decide.
迷乱 is an interesting word.
July wrote:
Susan: I wish I have an orderly life, rzp knows how crazy I am now, I hate it.
Susan wrote: - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/28/2007
Read more and write more, you will be fine. Trust me, sister :)
July wrote:
These days, I only go to office to see my mad boss :-), the only thing I keep for myself is my high heels :-)
I need to be saved :-) If not totally, at least, most of my soul, lost! - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/28/2007
I believe you can take control of the craziest situations, go squash your mad boss with your high heels!
July wrote:
These days, I only go to office to see my mad boss :-), the only thing I keep for myself is my high heels :-)
I need to be saved :-) If not totally, at least, most of my soul, lost! - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 09/29/2007
我这人天生不喜欢大城市,城市越小越好。 - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/02/2007
乡村更好. :)
Really, how can anyone stand all the noise and pollution and crowds of big cities is beyond me. I got tired of all that years ago.
My ideal place is 芙蓉囯,桃花园,最好连鸡犬声都不闻.
Anyone share my ideal? :)
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/02/2007
ying wrote:
乡村更好. :)
Really, how can anyone stand all the noise and pollution and crowds of big cities is beyond me. I got tired of all that years ago.
My ideal place is 芙蓉囯,桃花园,最好连鸡犬声都不闻.
Anyone share my ideal? :)
这就是我的乡村,在后院搭梯子就可以望到的田野和牛群。 不仅鸡犬不闻,而且找不到人说话,怪无聊的:)
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/02/2007
Wow. That's beautiful! Maybe I should move there and be your neighbor :) I love cows, too.
Where is it? - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/02/2007
ying wrote:
My ideal place is 芙蓉囯,桃花园,最好连鸡犬声都不闻.
我怎么觉着真正鸡犬不闻的是大城市啊。出了门迷乱,回家一关门自己的桃花源,啥不耽误,多好。:) - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
浮生, 你这心态对头, 向你学习.
可内心深出还是向往纯净的自然.
我怎么觉着真正鸡犬不闻的是大城市啊。出了门迷乱,回家一关门自己的桃花源,啥不耽误,多好。:) - posted on 10/03/2007
ying wrote:
Wow. That's beautiful! Maybe I should move there and be your neighbor :) I love cows, too.
Where is it?
ying wrote:
浮生, 你这心态对头, 向你学习.
可内心深出还是向往纯净的自然.
我怎么觉着真正鸡犬不闻的是大城市啊。出了门迷乱,回家一关门自己的桃花源,啥不耽误,多好。:)
我这乡土资料还没贴上,Ying同学这么快就被劝降了?千万不要轻信某些人的蛊惑:)
(From Wiki) The Ozarks Mountains is a physiographic, geologic, and cultural highland region of the central United States. It covers much of the south half of Missouri and an extensive portion of northwest and North central Arkansas. The region also extends westward into northeast Oklahoma and extreme southeast Kansas. The Ozark Highlands area, covering nearly 47,000 square miles, is by far the most extensive mountainous region between the Appalachian and Rocky Mountains.
最初从大湖平原搬来的时候仿佛是 Escape, 每天开车看见牛羊就兴奋得不行,觉得天然大粪比别人的汽车尾气还是要爽鼻很多:),现在住久了,也有被笼住的感觉,漫山遍野都是笼子。所以有人提醒说一年到头Escape就不能再叫“放风”了,不如叫充军发配。望Ying同学慎重考虑;)
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
This summer I got wolves in my backyard (coyote). They came from the mountain nearby, looking for food. My mother was visiting and had nightmares after a close encounter. I joked that they traced the smell of the new baby to our house, but nobody thought I was funny. - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
Susan wrote:
This summer I got wolves in my backyard (coyote). They came from the mountain nearby, looking for food. My mother was visiting and had nightmares after a close encounter. I joked that they traced the smell of the new baby to our house, but nobody thought I was funny.
Aren't you going to invite me for a hunting trip? I was told that my rifle is a bit of an over-kill for deer, but quite appropriate for wolves. :-) - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
Senior 8, I meant to ask you, how could you have deers in Manhattan?
八十一子 wrote:
Aren't you going to invite me for a hunting trip? I was told that my rifle is a bit of an over-kill for deer, but quite appropriate for wolves. :-) - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
You bet. Plenty in Manhattan zoo. :-)
Susan wrote:
Senior 8, I meant to ask you, how could you have deers in Manhattan?
八十一子 wrote:
Aren't you going to invite me for a hunting trip? I was told that my rifle is a bit of an over-kill for deer, but quite appropriate for wolves. :-) - posted on 10/03/2007
Actually there weren't any deer in Manhattan when I lived there a few years back.
I no longer live there. I now live in a mountainous area where deer and bears roam.
Someone I know who live in Chicago also reported seeing coyotes in her backyard.
Susan wrote:
Senior 8, I meant to ask you, how could you have deers in Manhattan?
八十一子 wrote:
Aren't you going to invite me for a hunting trip? I was told that my rifle is a bit of an over-kill for deer, but quite appropriate for wolves. :-) - posted on 10/03/2007
Susan wrote:
This summer I got wolves in my backyard (coyote). They came from the mountain nearby, looking for food. My mother was visiting and had nightmares after a close encounter. I joked that they traced the smell of the new baby to our house, but nobody thought I was funny.
Are you seriously not delighted by the company of an uninvited coyote? I think they are rather cute, at least you can somehow manage to 与狼共舞,vs my lonely self with 对牛弹琴:)) - posted on 10/03/2007
WOA wrote:
我这乡土资料还没贴上,Ying同学这么快就被劝降了?千万不要轻信某些人的蛊惑:)
Ying也不要听WOA的蛊惑,既然向往的是纯净的自然,凡是那牛羊遍地的全是牧场,早不纯了:)我以前一向是把乡村和自然混着的,直到看到了英国的乡村和美国的wild wildness。
Susan wrote:
This summer I got wolves in my backyard (coyote).
我在公司的parking lot碰到过一对coyotes,很精神的样子。八十一子不如带着猎枪做一次美西南狩猎游:)
- posted on 10/03/2007
八十一子 wrote:
Actually there weren't any deer in Manhattan when I lived there a few years back.
I no longer live there. I now live in a mountainous area where deer and bears roam.
Someone I know who live in Chicago also reported seeing coyotes in her backyard.
I saw coyotes at my back yard too, 10 miles away from Manhattan.
I just came back from Manhattan, it's been many months since last time I went into (not passing by) "the city". Still did not feel a bit of "迷乱". Big City and Suburbans, as well as rural areas, they all have their own charm.
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/03/2007
浮生 wrote:
我在公司的parking lot碰到过一对coyotes,很精神的样子。八十一子不如带着猎枪做一次美西南狩猎游:)
Good idea! More info, please...
Sent to visitor101@gmail.com :-) - posted on 10/03/2007
前不久有过报道说,在美国,大灰狼又回来了。至少在落几山里。有关方面已经在考虑要把它们从“有灭绝危险“动物名单里取下。好像是说狼是豺狗(coyotes)的天敌(争食,还是猎食?),没有狼,豺狗就多了。
rzp wrote:
八十一子 wrote:I saw coyotes at my back yard too, 10 miles away from Manhattan.
Actually there weren't any deer in Manhattan when I lived there a few years back.
I no longer live there. I now live in a mountainous area where deer and bears roam.
Someone I know who live in Chicago also reported seeing coyotes in her backyard.
I just came back from Manhattan, it's been many months since last time I went into (not passing by) "the city". Still did not feel a bit of "迷乱". Big City and Suburbans, as well as rural areas, they all have their own charm.
- posted on 10/04/2007
WOA wrote:
最初从大湖平原搬来的时候仿佛是 Escape, 每天开车看见牛羊就兴奋得不行,觉得天然大粪比别人的汽车尾气还是要爽鼻很多:),现在住久了,也有被笼住的感觉,漫山遍野都是笼子。所以有人提醒说一年到头Escape就不能再叫“放风”了,不如叫充军发配。望Ying同学慎重考虑;)
Haha. Manure does smell far better than smog, my nose says :)
Hmm, wilderness can be like a cage--are you serious? I have never felt that way. Being in the wild allows us to become one with nature (天人合一), so, the longer one stays, the better. What can modernity/city offer anyway, except gaudy, useless THINGS? But pristine nature give us infinite bliss and wellbeing of the whole body, mind, spirit, soul, which is far beyond the pleasure any earthly goods brings.
充军发配 sounds pretty appealing as well. The problem, in today's world, is that there is no real wild place to go anymore, since the whole globe is either already developed, or is being developed, or will soon be developed, and everywhere is striving to become another NY or LA. It's merely a matter of time before every square inch of earth is covered with concrete, highways, shopping malls, and tires--so to speak. So feel lucky you have an idyllic scene to escape to.
BTW, there don't seem to be many trees in your area from the photo. Any woods or forest nearby? My dream is to live in/near a forest, to be close to real nature, with wild animals around. The non-dangerous kinds, of course :)
- posted on 10/04/2007
ying wrote:
BTW, there don't seem to be many trees in your area from the photo. Any woods or forest nearby? My dream is to live in/near a forest, to be close to real nature, with wild animals around. The non-dangerous kinds, of course :)
Hmmm, looks like you do need to come down here for a quick break-away from the metro modernity, but nothing guaranteed for 天人合一 though:)) Here is a picture we took last year, in the big front yard shared by our subdivision; and speaking of more trees, this area is actually rated nationally near the top for allergic diseases, thanks to the oversupply of airborne allergens pollinated among the enormous plethora of trees:))
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/04/2007
WOA wrote:
ying
Beautiful. Your fall foliage seems pretty early. - Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/05/2007
扭腰那比得上DC.
free music / art performance whole summer at 13th St.
I even saw Beijing Opera, by Taiwanees.
Naval Academy Band performs several times a year.
July 4th fireworks.
date hot girls? go to Georgetown.
brokeback? Dupont Circle,or Capital Hill.
protest? every minute in front of White House.
一次国内来的访问团问我DC的红灯区,让我想了半天,最后问他们strip club 算不算红灯区?
- Re: 华夏快递 : 鲁鸣:纽约的迷乱posted on 10/05/2007
WOW, WOA! Amazing colors, and lots of trees... Very tempting indeed! Ok, I'm moving :)
Speaking of tree pollen allergy, well, it seems that seasonal and pollen allergy is an American thing--something few (if any) Chinese experience. I have no allergies, so the more trees/grass/plants and their pollens, the better :)
It's not too cold in winter there, I hope.
To 81: the fall color photo was taken last year, as WOA stated. You didn't pay attention, did you? :)
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