想念缅甸
热带风暴席卷缅甸的次日,立即想到一个久无联系但近年常去那里的朋友,赶快寻人;紧接着看到世界末日之景象,更是绝望地寻找诺亚的方舟。然后失眠,缅甸的点滴趁着黑夜狂风暴雨地袭来,对缅甸的想念竟如此强烈,甚至有些苦楚难言,悲从中来。
记得跟着被尊称“吴”(U),身着传统缅人长裙“笼吉” (Longji) 的一位缅甸人,在骄阳之下出入古都蒲甘的佛塔寺庙,在黄昏的伊洛瓦底江一叶扁舟上,对他们说我小时候听到的一首歌叫《晚霞映照在伊洛瓦底江》,在简单的茅屋里看见少女用她们纤细的手,专心致志地雕刻漆器上的传统花纹图案。蒲甘的废墟让人嘘吁缠绵,而伊洛瓦底江悲伤的夕阳,却温柔地佛去彷徨与不安。飞机沿江南下,千座佛塔在热带雨林中闪现,消失,玉带般的伊洛瓦底江从北向南,温存地把鱼米奉给这个佛教之国。
车过湖边湿润的绿地,穿过一座芭蕉掩映的楼房,人说,那里住着被软禁的昂山素姬,众人缄口;来到农贸市场,有东南亚市场的喧闹,却无其丰盛,偶见的海鲜奇贵无比,人说,大部份出口中国换外汇了;难怪昆明人可以吃到我从未见到过的,叫不出名字的空运来的海鲜;从邮局寄出一大叠明信片,但从未有人收到过;突然接到一封由某国转来的信,是曼达腊的友人托外国游人带出国寄的;烛影摇弋下一位优雅的缅甸人用云南话与我交谈,原来他在昆明留过学;一位友人告之她受仰光大学邀请,即将前往访学;童年伙伴久无音讯,说是外驻缅甸了;见到云南商店里的奇特树雕树根,一问,来自缅甸;至于玉石翡翠宝石,除了缅甸,哪里有这样的人间美玉?
缅甸是我珍藏于心的保留地,缅甸是我的近邻。我最早迷上缅甸,不是因为奥维尔的《缅甸岁月》,而是埃德蒙-李奇关于缅甸北部的克钦人的联姻与政治制度研究,因我曾迷恋一切有关亲属制度的故事。而克钦人,在云南自称景颇,如同相邻的佤人,掸人,水傣人,旱傣人,傈僳人,怒人,阿昌人,倮倮人等等,他们都是我亲爱的邻居,在缅甸和缅甸人一样,世世代代在横断山的大峡谷里劳作,播种,收获,歌唱;生命沿袭着怒江,变为萨洛温江,对望着伊洛瓦底江,祖祖辈辈刀耕火种,争斗,杀牛,祭祖,繁衍,生息,抗争。
想念缅甸,想念一衣带水,唇齿相依的邻居。
2008.5.9
- Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/10/2008
我认识一个缅甸女人,好固执啊,像横断山 :-)
有缅甸语吗?他们有中国血统吗?我对那里的知识限于那个缅甸女人 :-) - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/10/2008
有缅甸语的. - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/10/2008
温謦又深厚的小文...鹿希人文社会地理历史的知识都是十分的渊博的!
爱读极了!
每早听这些新闻都是非常的不安! 让我们为缅甸的父老兄弟祈祷! - posted on 05/11/2008
May 11, 2008
Bodies Flow Into Hard-Hit Area of Myanmar
By THE NEW YORK TIMES
THANAP PIN SATE, Myanmar — The bodies come and go with the tides. They wash up onto the riverbanks or float grotesquely downstream, almost always face down. They are all but ignored by the living.
In the southern reaches of the Irrawaddy Delta, where the only access to hundreds of small villages is by boat, the remains of the victims of the May 3 cyclone that swept across Myanmar are rotting in the sun.
“These people are strangers,” said Kyaw Swe, a clothing merchant who said he expected the tides to take away the six bloated bodies lying on the muddy banks near his collapsed home. “They come from upstream.”
Villagers here say it is not their responsibility to handle the dead. But the government presence is barely felt in the serpentine network of canals outside Bogale and Phyarpon, devastated towns in the delta, one of the areas hardest hit by the storm.
“When we first saw the bodies floating past, we were sad and afraid,” said Aung Win, a 45-year-old rice farmer, who seemed to have survived because his house is made of hardwood. “Now we just say, here comes another body.”
In the less devastated areas, the military junta was focused on a constitutional referendum on Saturday intended to cement its power after a campaign of intimidation, even as it continued to restrict foreign aid shipments.
Relief experts say the aid being distributed is a fraction of what is needed to help as many as 1.5 million people facing starvation and disease. The military appeared to be diverting some resources from cyclone victims to the referendum. One resident of Yangon, speaking by phone, said refugees who had sought shelter in schoolhouses were forced out so the buildings could be used as polling places.
But here in the series of canals outside Bogale, many people interviewed Saturday during an eight-hour boat trip used the same word to describe how many bodies they saw in the immediate aftermath of the cyclone: “countless.”
The trip began in Phyarpon, one of the delta’s major cities, and continued southwest through canals large and small, with stops at half a dozen villages. But in a delta so vast, crisscrossed by tiny waterways, it is very difficult to assess the overall scale of death and destruction. The official government death toll from the cyclone is about 23,000, but by some accounts, it could reach 100,000 if aid does not reach survivors soon.
As the boat wended its way through canals, it passed at least 24 bodies, most of them along the banks, tangled with the fallen foliage. One body was positioned reaching out toward the shore. Nearby, the bodies of an adult and a child clung to each other, floating in the middle of a canal as riverboats passed by.
Even more pervasive are the giant corpses of water buffaloes bobbing in the water.
Because the dead have not been gathered in one place, calculating a precise number of deaths caused by the cyclone could ultimately prove impossible. In villages here, stunned survivors say the missing are presumed dead.
With no roads connecting them to larger towns and cities, these villages have always been isolated. Now villagers say they feel abandoned.
In Gwe Choung, 13 miles from Bogale, a reporter visiting Saturday was the first outsider to set foot in the village since the storm hit.
“We have no seed, no cows and no buffaloes,” said Mawin Lat, 34, a villager. “We only have food for the next few days.”
Fish are plentiful in the canals, but villagers refuse to eat them because they fear the bodies still floating have contaminated the water, she said.
Of the 200 people in the village, 96 died. In other villages visited Saturday, the death tolls ranged from 3 to 20.
Hundreds of houses were destroyed, detritus from the storm hung from trees and dozens of fishing boats were ruined. Many boats were swept by the winds and waves during the storm onto embankments or into rice paddies.
In the worst-hit areas, only the dirt foundations of houses remain. On one mound of mud where a house once stood, a dog waited patiently with no people in sight.
There is so much worry about measles outbreaks that the government has begun vaccinating children in some of the Irrawaddy townships and also in temporary shelters in other parts of the region, the World Health Organization reported Saturday.
Closer to Yangon, the main city, formerly known as Rangoon, the water is receding, the rebuilding is accelerating and the cemeteries are dry enough to dig graves.
After a tumultuous week, the rituals of death returned to the small village of Ta Nyn Kone. The thin but rigid body of 6-year-old Pauk Gyi was lowered into the ground, wrapped in a bamboo mat and red fabric. Pauk Gyi died after a high fever that his neighbors, who buried him, thought was caused by typhoid. He was laid to rest next to his brother, Kyaw Zin Htat, who drowned in flood waters on Friday.
The parents, stricken by their double loss, stayed at home during the burial.
“They are anguished,” said U Shwe Nyne, a neighbor who helped bury the boys. “The mother is hysterical.”
- Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/11/2008
我还是没太搞懂这次的灾难,新闻说的很confuse, 鹿希再讲讲。是飓风引起的? - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/11/2008
写得很动人,使我这个对缅甸一无所知的人,都动情了。缅甸的事的确是很楸心的。
BTW, 什么是亲属制度?仍是tribe? 父系社会,母系社会?
- posted on 05/11/2008
July wrote:
我还是没太搞懂这次的灾难,新闻说的很confuse, 鹿希再讲讲。是飓风引起的?
我也不知道引起的这场灾难的自然原因,也许和全球气候变化有关?天灾难免,人祸更是不幸。
援引国际红十字会消息,死者人数被估计在五万与十万之间,其实恐怕缅政府自己也没有能力统计死亡人数。军政府不甚合作,拒绝,拖延给国际援助人员发放签证,扣留救援粮食,要求控制物资分发,致使国际救援迟迟不能进入灾区,掩埋尸体以防止瘟疫,发放粮食,帐篷,蚊帐等,因为热带地区,露宿易招蛇虫袭击,蚊子叮咬传染疟疾,已有近百万人失去家园。
缅语属藏缅语系,缅文看上去象一个个竖立的小虫子,曲里拐弯,很有趣。
缅文
Lucy: thanks and love, as usual....
回pengyou: 谢鼓励。亲属制度简言之,琢磨各个社会,父系,母系或双系社会里血亲与姻亲的关系。人们如何界定谁是血亲,谁是姻亲,如何继嗣,如何联姻,有何清规戒律,如何称呼妻舅婆媳七大姑八大姨,嫁妆聘礼多少,姓氏谁继承,遗产如何分,等等。
爱情因素不在此考虑范围之内。 - posted on 05/11/2008
这文有许多东西听了新鲜,望鹿希多谈谈缅甸的事,语言,吃食,风
俗什么的。缅甸的南传佛教,是上座赤铜牒部的?有说是斯里兰卡传
入的。。。
鹿希 wrote:
想念缅甸
热带风暴席卷缅甸的次日,立即想到一个久无联系但近年常去那里的朋友,赶快寻人;紧接着看到世界末日之景象,更是绝望地寻找诺亚的方舟。然后失眠,缅甸的点滴趁着黑夜狂风暴雨地袭来,对缅甸的想念竟如此强烈,甚至有些苦楚难言,悲从中来。
记得跟着被尊称“吴”(U),身着传统缅人长裙“笼吉” (Longji) 的一位缅甸人,在骄阳之下出入古都蒲甘的佛塔寺庙,在黄昏的伊洛瓦底江一叶扁舟上,对他们说我小时候听到的一首歌叫《晚霞映照在伊洛瓦底江》,在简单的茅屋里看见少女用她们纤细的手,专心致志地雕刻漆器上的传统花纹图案。蒲甘的废墟让人嘘吁缠绵,而伊洛瓦底江悲伤的夕阳,却温柔地佛去彷徨与不安。飞机沿江南下,千座佛塔在热带雨林中闪现,消失,玉带般的伊洛瓦底江从北向南,温存地把鱼米奉给这个佛教之国。
车过湖边湿润的绿地,穿过一座芭蕉掩映的楼房,人说,那里住着被软禁的昂山素姬,众人缄口;来到农贸市场,有东南亚市场的喧闹,却无其丰盛,偶见的海鲜奇贵无比,人说,大部份出口中国换外汇了;难怪昆明人可以吃到我从未见到过的,叫不出名字的空运来的海鲜;从邮局寄出一大叠明信片,但从未有人收到过;突然接到一封由某国转来的信,是曼达腊的友人托外国游人带出国寄的;烛影摇弋下一位优雅的缅甸人用云南话与我交谈,原来他在昆明留过学;一位友人告之她受仰光大学邀请,即将前往访学;童年伙伴久无音讯,说是外驻缅甸了;见到云南商店里的奇特树雕树根,一问,来自缅甸;至于玉石翡翠宝石,除了缅甸,哪里有这样的人间美玉?
缅甸是我珍藏于心的保留地,缅甸是我的近邻。我最早迷上缅甸,不是因为奥维尔的《缅甸岁月》,而是埃德蒙-李奇关于缅甸北部的克钦人的联姻与政治制度研究,因我曾迷恋一切有关亲属制度的故事。而克钦人,在云南自称景颇,如同相邻的佤人,掸人,水傣人,旱傣人,傈僳人,怒人,阿昌人,倮倮人等等,他们都是我亲爱的邻居,在缅甸和缅甸人一样,世世代代在横断山的大峡谷里劳作,播种,收获,歌唱;生命沿袭着怒江,变为萨洛温江,对望着伊洛瓦底江,祖祖辈辈刀耕火种,争斗,杀牛,祭祖,繁衍,生息,抗争。
这些民族确实是上古史的遗迹,尤其是苗种,古三苗?还有倮倮,古
羌人?罗罗?
想念缅甸,想念一依带水,唇齿相依的邻居。缅甸没有去过。《晚霞映照在伊洛瓦底江》,外国歌曲二零一里有
一首叫《海鸥》的歌,查了首句即是:
晚霞映照在伊洛瓦底江,
活泼的海鸥展翅飞翔,
啊,它们飞来飞去尽情歌唱,
啊,它们自由自在多么欢畅,
静静的江水向东流
唯 有那歌声轻轻回荡。
海鸥啊,海鸥啊,
你那动人的歌声
扰乱了我平静的心房。
看晚霞映照在伊洛瓦底江,
这是多么美好的时光!
啊,海鸥飞来飞去尽情歌唱,
啊,它们自由自在多么欢畅,
静静的江水向东流
唯有那歌声轻轻回荡。
Youtube不到,旋律有印象。
2008.5.9
- Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/16/2008
xw wrote:缅甸的南传佛教,是上座赤铜牒部的?有说是斯里兰卡传
入的。。。
I wish I could answer your question. Sorry, I don't know, am not an expert on Buddhism. - posted on 05/17/2008
I appreciate 鹿希's sentiment in this article. People are either neighbors or neighbors' neighbors. I am hooked by the documentary series Zai Shuo Chang Jiang "Yangtze River Retold?" on CCTV4. The endearing voice of the narrator, the moving theme from the original Hua Shuo Chang Jiang "Tales of Yangtze River", the sceneries, and the history and the fact and the thought of all of our lives connected by a network of river system. Awesome! And I also sorely miss my middle school Chinese geography class, one that so fascinated me and one that is among the most intimate kinds of knowledge one can have. - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/17/2008
文短情深,内涵深厚。我一直觉着缅甸离我很远,鹿希的小文真的让我觉着近了很多,不只是感情上,而是真的近,人文地理的,以前没有意识到,谢鹿希。
说缅文的字母,原来是和婆罗米字母有渊源的,去看了下阿育王柱的script,真的有点象。 - posted on 05/17/2008
touche wrote:
I appreciate 鹿希's sentiment in this article. People are either neighbors or neighbors' neighbors. I am hooked by the documentary series Zai Shuo Chang Jiang "Yangtze River Retold?" on CCTV4. The endearing voice of the narrator, the moving theme from the original Hua Shuo Chang Jiang "Tales of Yangtze River", the sceneries, and the history and the fact and the thought of all of our lives connected by a network of river system. Awesome! And I also sorely miss my middle school Chinese geography class, one that so fascinated me and one that is among the most intimate kinds of knowledge one can have.
再说长江是非常不错,拍摄技术远非八十年代可比。看了头两集,各拉丹东的沱沱河发源,既是生命也是宿命。。。。touche是什么时候看?好像播出时间总不确定。 - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/17/2008
12:30 to 1:00 & 7:30 to 8:00 PM Eastern Standard Time after "News 60". Last night it was episode 5 if I remember correctly.
老瓦 wrote:
再说长江是非常不错,拍摄技术远非八十年代可比。看了头两集,各拉丹东的沱沱河发源,既是生命也是宿命。。。。touche是什么时候看?好像播出时间总不确定。 - posted on 05/18/2008
中午看到了一集,正好是关于几条在四川支流的介绍,岷江在古代一直被以为是长江的源头,所以很多祭祀活动都在都江堰举行。但片中没有提到治水先圣大禹的故乡,就是这次地震的中心汶川、北川一带。
后面还说到三峡大坝的选址只距离葛洲坝三十八公里,那不是废掉了葛洲坝么?
touche wrote:
12:30 to 1:00 & 7:30 to 8:00 PM Eastern Standard Time after "News 60". Last night it was episode 5 if I remember correctly.
老瓦 wrote:
再说长江是非常不错,拍摄技术远非八十年代可比。看了头两集,各拉丹东的沱沱河发源,既是生命也是宿命。。。。touche是什么时候看?好像播出时间总不确定。 - Re: 想念缅甸posted on 05/18/2008
再来顶顶这篇,地震把缅甸的注意力转移了,但缅甸死去的人更多,政府又不管,更需要关注。我把钱给美国红十字会“缅甸,中国”救灾基金了,每个人,每个国家的灾难都是同样深重的。
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